Zenith - Combining design with complications
GMT XXL - Summer 2009
Placing beauty in the service of mechanical perfection, while creating a subtle blend of tradition and modernity: such is the challenge taken up by Zenith at each new stage of its history. In 1969, the Manufacture had demonstrated how greatly it excelled in this field by unveiling El Primero 400, the first integrated self-winding chronograph movement capable of measuring short times to within one tenth of a second. Designed according to an almost academic design, this model is a masterpiece of innovation combining a small volume, excellent reliability and faultless precision.
Often copied but never equaled, El Primero embodies a movement "philosophy" interpreted in 23 different versions powering Zenith's different lines. This year, the brand is marking the 40th anniversary of its famous caliber with the release of New Vintage 69, a special series celebrating the first watch to be equipped with the legendary El Primero caliber - rechristened 469 in a nod to the year the original watch was created. This tribute is expressed through three different materials clothing the same case design directly inspired by the original model and issued in limited collector's editions. The El Primero anniversary edition appearing on the dial at 7 o'clock is also engraved on the transparent sapphire crystal case-back - a resolutely eye-catching feature. The dials of these series all bear a distinctive colorful "time strip" or arrow embodying the acceleration of time between 1969 to 2009 and stamped with all the historical guilloche motifs used in Zenith collections: barleycorn, hobnail, checkered and large hohnail patterns.
Distinguished by its pure style dictated by a decidedly minimalist approach, the Class collection is enriched this year with three new models featuring a contemporary design based on classicism and discreet luxury. The Multicity line welcomes a complication that is unique in its kind: the Class El Primero Multicity Alarm. In addition to affording the possibility of reading off the time in any time zone, this exceptional timepiece is also equipped with a 12-hour adjustable alarm. Comprising 439 parts and 41 jewels, El Primero 4046 is the first self-winding movement to incorporate a columnwheel chronograph, a large date, world time, twin barrels and an alarm. In harmony with the finest watchmaking traditions, this masterpiece comes in rose gold with a silvery guilloche dial and an integrated black alligator strap with brown overstitching; or in a more contemporary style with steel case, black dial and integrated strap featuring deep blue overstitching echoing the dial color.
The Class Elite Moonphase equipped with the Elite 691 proprietary caliber is distinguished by the slender elegance of its case introduced in a new 40 mm size resulting in ever more perfectly balanced proportions. The adaptable nature of this ultra-thin self-winding movement enables the addition of functions such as a Large Date - in this case featuring two discs to enhance its size; and a moon-phase display. This luxurious sobriety is echoed in the Clou de Paris hobnail guilloche motif on the dial and the sunray- brushed guilloche-work on the small seconds and moon-phase subdials. The carbon-coated, hand-applied gold or steel hour-markers testify to superlative aesthetic mastery characteristic of a genuine Manufacture. Embodying the glamorous chic of the 1950s, and available in guilloche or smooth versions in rose gold or steel, this timepiece boldly asserts its inimitable style and appeals by its timeless perfection.
Dedicated to feminine style and elegance, the Class Lady Moonphase Elite, equipped with the proprietary Elite 692 movement, meets all the demands of today's sophisticated woman. Stunningly attractive in both its rose gold and steel versions, its slender case is distinguished by an immaculate white mother-of-pearl dial imprisoned in a diamond-set cage. An anthem to feminine classicism, this model features moon-phase correction via the crown so as to preserve its perfect proportions. The sensual brown alligator strap molds even the daintiest wrists and sets the crowning touch to this exceptional timepiece.
Zenith's iconic ChornoMaster collection welcomes a stellar new model. The ChronoMaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase offers a surprising contrast between resolutely classical elegance and modern accents. A fresh illustration of the expertise cultivated within the Manufacture, this unique complication consisting of a chronograph combined with Large Date, Moon and Sun phases reveals the new 332-part, 41-jewel El Primero Caliber 4047 through an opening in the dial. The barleycorn guilloche dial motif and the wave-patterned guilloche work on the counters and the moon disk, the delicately circular-grained mainplate as well as the guilloche oscillating weight all represent precise and refined tokens of authentic watchmaking know-how. Available in a single 45 mm size, the rose gold dials frame a silvery dial, while the steel versions offer a chance between black or silvery variations. The aristocratic and refined ChronoMaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase captures the mechanical measurement of time with infinite style.
Evolving in a timeless sphere beyond time and over and above mere functionality, the Academy collection encompasses genuine masterpieces representing tributes to the rarest expression of noble watchmaking traditions. Fashioned by the human hand and by 140 years of history, ACADEMY Tourbillons and Perpetual Calendar celebrate time-honored expertise, exalt a tireless concern for details, and consecrate the beauty of intricate watchmaking gestures. With The new Academy Tourbillon El Primero Quantieme perpetuel is an anthem to eternity. By combining the Tourbillon, the Perpetual Calendar and the El Primero chronograph, Zenith is associating three legendary watch complications to create a unique timepiece celebrating the precision that only a great authentic Manufacture is able to offer.
A 45 mm-diameter rose gold case houses the new El Primero Caliber 4033 with its 492 parts and 35 jewels. Its double gadroon, the craftsmanship on the dial and the sword-shaped hands all serve to create an harmoniously classic touch, subtly offset by the asymmetrical hour-markers lending an original touch to this horological opus. On this model, the tourbillon carriage is fixed to the Roman numeral XI. A genuine work of art its own right, the dial comes in two different guilloche motifs: a wave pattern on the three perpetual calendar counters and barleycorn for the rest. No less than eight hands are featured there, all in hand-applied solid gold, as indeed are the counter rims and hour-markers. The black crocodile leather strap is fully integrated and fitted with a triple folding clasp totaling 24 grams of rose gold.