Chronicle - Die Referenz
5 May 2009
- www.fratellowatches.com
In 1994, the BMW 5-series was nominated for being the 'best sport saloon car in the world' (source: BMW 1975-2001 by Laurence Meredith) and for a long time the BMW 5-series was considered 'die Referenz' (the reference) by many. And perhaps it is still being referred to as the reference car in its class.
What has this to do with watches? Well, as you might know, watch collectors, editors and aficionados often use the watch - car analogy. It might be wise, especially for people who are on a quest for a nice watch, or who are starting watch collectors, to define your own reference watch. Like the BMW 5-series is 'die Referenz' for cars in a certain class, you'll have to find 'die Referenz' for watches.
Ofcourse, when opting for a Patek Philippe watch, it isn't very logical to use an Oris as a reference watch. Or vice versa, to define a Vacheron Constantin watch as a reference watch when your budget is between 2000 and 3000 euro.
But let's take it one step at a time. Why do you need a reference watch? Or why do I consider it useful? Watches are emotion products and buying or collecting them can easily run out of hand, from a financial point of view. The prices paid for a watch aren't rational most of the time (did you know you can actually buy a very decent mechanical watch for just under 100 Euro?). Buyers of mechanical watches are lead by emotional arguments such as history, cult status, the brand's image, nostalgic feelings etc. There is nothing wrong with that, but it might be wise (especially as a starting collector or buyer of watches in a higher segment) to keep an eye on the price that is being asked for the watch as a product. In other words, is the price tag on the watch justified?
For this, I personally use a reference watch every time I am on the lookout for a new / other watch. I can get very excited about a certain watch and easily forget about its price tag. In some cases, when I compare the watch that excites me to my own defined reference watch, I'll land (safely) on my feet again.
When I am - for example - looking for watches in the 2.500-5.000 Euro price range, my reference watch needs to be in that segment as well. As a reference watch, I picked a Rolex GMT-Master II in stainless steel. This watch sells for approximately 4.500 euro and brings you a manufacture movement with a (small) complication in the form of an extra time zone, water resistant case and crown, decent bracelet with micro adjustment and a good value keeper in general.
In the case of another price range - let's say the range is now 7.500-10.000 Euro - this doesn't automatically lead me to a stainless steel Rolex in this category. The Rolex Daytona would be a watch that fits in this category for example, but my personal reference watch in this category is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in stainless steel. I regard AP as a more 'haute horlogerie' brand that brings a bit more 'exclusiveness' and who has a higher grade of finish. At least on the watch movement and the stainless steel case and bracelet. To each his own of course.
However, I can also understand that you might be tempted to buy a watch that doesn't even come close to your reference watch, but that will unleash the watch aficionado in you. Buy that watch.
Not every decision of a starting watch collector or watch connoisseur has to be logical or 'to be explained'. This way, I ended up ordering a Linde Werdelin 3-Timer with a brown dial. It is in the price range of my 2.500-5.000 euro reference watch (GMT-Master II) and lacks an in-house movement, famous name on the dial or stainless steel bracelet. But to me, when I first saw this watch for the first time at BaselWorld 2009, I was immediately hooked. The case design fits my taste perfectly, the 'hobnail' brown dial is amazing, the small complication of an extra time zone, limited to 22 pieces, the philosophy of the brand is fresh, and the people behind the brand are very approachable and actually listen to your input as a customer. LW also keeps you posted on the development of their new watches, via their blog at http://thelab.lindewerdelin.com.
Perhaps this watch just told me that I need a new 'die Referenz'.
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