Maurice Lacroix Les Classiques Phase de Lune Automatic Men's Watch LC6068-SS001-331

WORLDTEMPUS - 10 December 2012

What was THE watch accessory of 2012? In all probability, those interchangeable webbed straps worth between 10 and 25 euros known to aficionados as NATO straps. In spite of being more present than ever in the watch scene this year, they are not new and have even withstood the test of time - but seem to have finally left the connoisseur niche to go mainstream with several established brands adopting them in respective collections. NATO straps are comfortable, easily changed out and provide a quick way to add some preppy all-American or rugged military style to a timepiece. Oddly enough, the fact that they are now "out there" more than ever has even produced some backlash in the die-hard watch community due to overexposure.

Still, NATO straps have yet a long way to go regarding consensus and might not ever get it. Those who are not in the know will think one is wearing a cheap watch because of the nylon material; fashionistas will consider it the ultimate way to accessorize a timepiece to make a colorful and casual addition to a specific outfit; and some horological purists will even opine that any ribbon bracelet will make your watch look cheaper…unless it is fitted to a genuine vintage Rolex Military Submariner.
The James Bond connection
It was indeed a Rolex Submariner that catapulted NATO straps to cult status via Bond, James Bond, when Sean Connery flashed a black-and-grey-striped strap tucked inside his white dinner jacket in 1964's "Goldfinger." Up to that point, the woven nylon ribbons were mainly used in the army following the official requisition of an inexpensive and resistant way of strapping soldiers' timepieces to their wrists: enter an item manufactured with exceptionally b sonic welded joints and made of high quality cross-weave nylon that later became known as "G10" thanks to the form used to requisition the strap. It also got the "NATO" label since it has a NATO stock number.

The straps built to military spec are made to last in any environment and have official suppliers such as the Welsh company Phoenix Straps, provider of the British Ministry of the Defense. Meanwhile, the concept has gone civilian, becoming fashionable in a subcultural kind of way and sold mainly on the internet and shops carrying pre-owned timepieces. These days, there are numerous makers of NATO straps around the world boasting different levels of quality, finishing and patterns. Some companies make them in Europe (mainly UK, France, Italy), others in the U.S. and, expectedly, there's a growing number of factories in Asia.
Brands and Modifiers
The hip trend has been picked up by clothing and accessory companies such as Massimo Dutti and Fossil and, of course, by several watch brands of various latitudes. For instance, eco-friendly Tempvs Compvtare - always against the use of animal skin - opts for cotton, woven, NATO-type straps. Companies dedicated to Rolex customization such as London-based Project X Designs use sophisticated, extra-duty G10 webbing of the finest quality to tool up its Stealth Series MK limited editions that are inspired by historic Rolex models of the past and legendary British Military SBS.

At the same time, powerhouse mainstream brand Jaeger-LeCoultre was already showing a James Bond-style striped NATO strap in Cordura to fit the Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs series in its 2010 catalogue. And Maurice Lacroix's Pontos S chronograph gained a lot of popularity this year with colorful, striped, woven straps. Sandro Reginelli, product director at Maurice Lacroix, knows that the success of the new Pontos S line has a lot to do with the straps. "They are sporty and have a cool attitude, plus they are light and the wearing comfort is great. We have them made in a small manufacture specialized in this kind of strap under strict specification to meet our quality standards."

The Pontos S chronographs exude a sporty, go-getting spirit. "The dynamic strap is a perfect match for the case. Comfortable and hypoallergenic, especially in wet conditions, it demonstrates exceptional strength and popularity with athletes, divers and astronauts, who can easily adjust it according to the thickness of their gear," states Maurice Lacroix.

NATO STRAPS - A Casual Trend (Part 2)