Roger Dubuis - Richemont Era Becomes Tangible
WORLDTEMPUS - 21 January 2010
The Richemont has definitively begun at Roger Dubuis. Claude Vuillemez, COO of Roger Dubuis and a watchmaker who has worked at the Richemont group and specifically Cartier for the last quarter century, hit upon a very fitting metaphor: since its founding in 1995, Roger Dubuis may be considered as having been a bit like a teenager, "needing common sense and some maturity." Now Vuillemez finds that the Richemont takeover last fall will force the creative brand with the unusual products into "the adult part of life."
This new maturity is reflected in many of the structural changes implemented not only in the collection, but also at the movement level. "We are putting the quality back in order," he explains.
New Movements
In a range boasting 25 in-house calibers, it is hard to imagine needing two new movements. However, this is precisely what the new team has done. Caliber RD520 is the company's first automatic tourbillon - naturally with a catch. Though it has no further complications, this movement boasts an off-center micro rotor fully visible from the front of the watch, making its visuals unmistakable. It will officially debut in the fall.
The second movement is an automatic caliber with a bi-retrograde date: Caliber RD14B. This base automatic caliber was designed to beat in an entry-level-priced watch for the brand, extending its exclusive range. Previously, Roger Dubuis's entry-level price was above 18,000 Swiss francs. The new 46 mm stainless steel Easydiver model it debuts in will retail for 12,500 Swiss francs.
Additionally, the technicians at Roger Dubuis are in the process of getting all the company's movements certified by the C.O.S.C. Four already boast the independent certification proclaiming reliability.
New Models
The Roger Dubuis collection remains colorful and innovative while visual details have been tweaked to retain dynamism and stabilize design.
Four new models are being introduced in the Excalibur line: a tourbillon minute repeater, a double tourbillon, the previously mentioned automatic tourbillon, and a bi-retrograde jumping date.
The Easydiver line has been enhanced to emphasize its sporty character and showcase a more competitive price. Here a chronograph and a ladies' jewelry piece are new.
The Kingsquare line has likewise experienced the arrival of two new pieces: a jeweled tourbillon and a 36 mm jeweled ladies' piece in rose gold.
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