Bell & Ross - An Instinct for Instrumentation
GMT XXL - Summer 2009
At the latest Baselworld watch show, many brands would have loved to welcome the number of visitors who flocked to the Bell & Ross stand, obviously not particularly affected by the global economic environment.
The least one can say is that the BR 01 Airbornemade a powerful impact. Plastered over the walls of the host city, the skull and crossbones motif topping the blackened square case, together with the sword and saber hands, ignited an amazing (cannon?) powder trail. Everyone wanted to see this watch with its blend of extravagant design and understated lines. Contrary to what one might have thought, Bell&Ross designers did not draw their inspiration from the world of piracy, but as ever from that of aviation instruments. Or rather, in this particular case, from military symbolism, since the skull and crossbones are often displayed on combat planes or paratroopers uniforms as a means of defying both death and enemies. The Airborne divisions were created during World War II. They were the ones most exposed to danger and the first to face death. Like their bestknown motto, "Death from Above", the skull is a constant reminder of their vulnerability. The BR 01 Airborne is an anthem to the extraordinary saga of military paratroopers, a tribute to all the young men who have fought in the largest and toughest army corps, and particularly the US Airborne. The BR01 Airbone reinvents the notion of the talisman, and embodies the spirit of these brave individuals. In a humorous nod from the designers of this distinctive watch, the skull smiles even at night-time, since its hands and dial are photoluminescent.
Far more demure, yet just as liable to attract attention in its own way, the new Instrument BR Heritage revisits the brand roots. One does not become an official supplier to air force pilots without a passion for military watches and aircraft cockpits! Directly inspired by airplane instrument panels, the Instrument collection meets four fundamental criteria: readability, functionality, precision and reliability. Its evolution has kept pace with that of aeronautical instrumentation which has undergone sweeping technological transformations since its early days. With the Instrument BR Heritage, Bell & Ross is reviving the authentic spirit of the collector's watch by drawing inspiration from the cockpit instruments of 1940s military planes. Its sand-colored hands, numerals and hour-markers, along with a heat-embossed natural leather strap, give it the character and style of 1940s military watches. Midway between yesterday and today, this vintage model draws inspiration from history while using ultra-modern technologies to reconstitute the effects of the passing of time…
FASTEN YOUR SEATBELTS
Whereas certain brands give the impression of constantly revolving around a single star model, the inspiration of Bell & Ross engineers and designers seems to be perpetually regenerated.
On the new Instrument BR 01-93 24H GMT, the famous square screw-down case of the Instrument line features a double revolution: one in 12 hours and the other in 24. On the main dial, the white hands indicate the time in the current location; while the orange hand moving over the graduated inner 24-hour ring shows "home time". The large photoluminescent white numerals, the inner bezel and the (orange) GMT hour hand make a striking contrast with the black dial background and guarantee optimal readability. It is indeed rare to have such an immediately decipherable dual time-zone display. Wherever you are, fasten your seatbelts, your pilot is about to take off!
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