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Patek Philippe - Touring an intense Manufacture.
Viewed from the outside, things look pretty straightforward. Between its sky-high auction value, its concern for quality, its mastery of horological complications and its considerable independence, Patek Philippe is quite simply the most prestigious watch brand of them all. Fair enough, one might well debate the truth and particularly the scope of this statement, since grandeur may reveal itself in a number of different ways within the watch industry. But to cut to the chase, let's say it's one of the top three most prestigious brands. This view is steadily becoming firmly established in people's minds as an obvious fact, at the risk of making them somewhat blase… Until the day one actually sets foot in the Manufacture located in Plan-les-Ouates on the outskirts of Geneva. Anyone seriously interested in watchmaking is naturally keen to take a closer look at the production facilities of the major brands that open their doors to visitors. And one might even be tempted to think that one such factory tour is very much like another. While it is true that the processes, the sequences of events and the general pattern of such visits are similar, everything in fact lies in the details and the ways of doing things are definitely never identical. That is why discovering Patek Philippe's production is a unique experience that proves to be a genuinely head-turning, eye-popping treat.
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It is simply impossible to describe this tour in detail. The profusion of objects and operations prevents any coherent narrative summary, so we will have to stick to a conceptual summary. Patek Philippe has attained a degree of production autonomy that is virtually unique; a level of development quality that places it in a league of its own; and meticulous craftsmanship that while perhaps not unequalled definitely stands out by its sheer breadth and depth. No other brand produces such a variety and quantity of Grande Complication watches; no other brand at this level of prestige has so many tools and machines. Patek Phillippe blanks, cuts, burnishes and polishes its wheels, pinions, plates, bridges, springs, levers… and even its screws! Is independence an end in itself? Only if it serves to guarantee execution on a par with its demanding standards that would otherwise be unattainable.
Unusual
In response to my astonished reaction to his explanations, my guide kept saying: "sure, obviously". To which I repeatedly replied: "there's definitely nothing obvious about it". What he considered as standard practice in fact denoted exceptional concern for details and complexity. Among a number of examples, Patek Philippe uses only a single spark erosion machine, serving to cut out parts that are too thin to be machined by a milling-cutter that cuts into the material. In a comparably sized factory, especially one producing so many Grande Complication models, one would expect to find around five of them. Patek Philippe has in fact taken the quality of its machining to such a high level that it can produce even the most detailed parts using tools that others would consider too unwieldy. The same goes for profile turning: Patek Philippe uses exclusively computer numerically controlled profile-turning machines. The size of its series, meaning the maximum number of identical parts, is so small that standard cam-type profile-turning machines (which are heavy, reliable, stable and widely appreciated) are simply not suitable - offering eloquent proof that the diversity of its production attains heights rarely seen elsewhere.
Diversity
However, even more distinctly than the manufacturing and assembly operations relating to the movement, cases are the true gems in Patek Philippe's production crown. And this is not due to the army of polishers, although they naturally play an important role. Nor is it because of the number of operations involved in shaping the cases, creating all manner of barely noticeable design elements. Once again, the core of the matter lies in the uncompromisingly rigorous approach implemented across the board. Which other brand can claim to such a large and fully occupied gemsetting workshop? Or to such a variety of precious dial-making methods ranging from grand feu enamelling to miniature enamelling along with guilloche motifs and pantographic reproduction? The brand applies the full force of its considerable expertise and resources to all stages in production. Witness the technical department that comprises no less than 110 people, including those involved in prototyping. New models are developed in six years, compared with the industry norm of around three. Talk about perfectionists!
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Auction - Patek Philippe Grand Complication
The Stephen S. Palmer Patek Philippe Grand Complication no. 97912 (estimate: $1,000,000 - 1,500,000) is regarded as History changing Grand Complication. It is an 18K pink gold openface minute repeating perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph clockwatch with grande and petite sonnerie and moon phases, manufactured in 1898. It was acquired by Stephen S. Palmer, a prominent american industrialist and a generous benefactor, in 1900. The timepiece will be unveiled in Christie's Rockefeller Center saleroom marking an unprecedented occasion for collectors of the world's finest timepieces.
Until the discovery of this Stephen S. Palmer Patek Philippe Grand Complication, it was widely accepted that Patek Philippe did not make its first Grand Complication until 1910 and that the second ever made was reserved before World War I for James W. Packard in 1916. The watch was purchased in October 1900 for CHF 6'500. This Grand Complication is a important addition to scholarship surrounding Patek Philippe and Grand Complications in general. It is the only example known to have been cased in pink gold whereas all following pieces were cased in yellow gold according to the style of the early 20th century.
Mr. Palmer, who was an passionate connoisseur of watches, was already a distinguished client of Patek Philippe when he traveled to the firm's Geneva factory in October 1990. The Grand Complication remained in a vault in Palmer's home, virtually untouched and is accompanied by original invoice and presentation box. It anticipates all other Grand Complications by a decade, standing as the most complete and crispest example of all Grand Complications known today.
Aurel Bacs, International Head of Watches, commented: "The Stephen S. Palmer Patek Philippe Grand Complication No. 97912 is the undisputed highlight of the spring 2013 worldwide watches auction season. Christie's New York June sale will open a new chapter into the world of horology, presenting the world's earliest, and most historically significant example of a Patek Philippe Grand Complication. Following the great success we saw at Christie's New York this past December with the collection of Gordon Bethune, we are very proud to be entrusted to execute yet another exceptional auction, marking June 11 as treat for scholars, historians, and collectors with a passion for watches of uncompromised quality."
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Confrerie Horlogere - Genta et Buttet: un duo explosif
The brand-new cooperation between the Maestro, an iconic figure in the field of watch design, and Mathias Buttet, a virtuoso exponent of mechanical complications, arose from a chance encounter in which creative sparks flew right from the start.
These two passionately dedicated individuals immediately sensed they were kindred spirits driven by exactly the same feelings.
Each of them senses the same elation when conceiving new ideas: Mr. Genta with his legendary aesthetic flair; and Matthias Buttet with his boundless imagination dedicated to researching cutting-edge high-tech watch mechanisms.
In their own words:
"In addition to his exceptional talent, I have discovered Mathias to be extraordinarily generous. I was dazzled by the concept of the Confrerie Horlogere (literally "the watchmaking brotherhood"), which consists in providing young people (both watchmakers and artisans) with the means - via the logistic backing of BNB Concept SA - to create watches according to their personal ideas and under their name; and if they are successful, to create their eponymous brand.
Associating with the Confrerie Horlogere is a real delight, as well as a new challenge. My desire is to support this young company and to build - in the company of people representing a variety of generations, backgrounds and ideas - a new breed of watchmaking imbued with a blend of classicism and innovation.
Although my long career in watchmaking has given me a good deal of satisfaction, this is the first time I am launching into an adventure that is completely new, and it's very exciting!
Mathias Buttet reminds me of Gerald Genta at the same age, endowed with the same boldness, the same wish to shake up conventions, to move resolutely forward while respecting the existing watchmaking heritage, and above all to maintain a continuous flow of creativi
"Even in my wildest dreams, I would never have imagined that the ultimate Designer, the "Maestro" as he is respectfully known, would pay me the honour of taking on the role of Advisor to the Confrerie Horlogere. I am extremely proud and grateful.
For me, Mr. Genta is the man who brought complicated watchmaking back into the spotlight by adapting it to modern tastes. Since the crisis that shook the industry in the 1970s, everyone was predicting the death of Swiss watchmaking; the supremacy of Japanese electronics appeared destined to last forever and traditional crafts had been all but abandoned.
In the 1980s, when I began my career in the watch business as an engineer, Mr. Genta was rowing firmly against the tide by restoring the pedigree of fine watchmaking enriched with horological complications. One might well compare his trailblazing role to the blades of a snow plough carving out a new path for others to follow. It is thanks to him that I decided to enter this field and I am extremely indebted to him.
I currently have more time to devote to creating original mechanisms, especially since Pierre Favre, who had been in charge of complications at Patek Philippe for 25 years, took over as CEO of BNB Concept SA two years ago. The alliance between the uber design of a living legend and the technological excellence of BNB will undoubtedly give rise to some truly "explosive" products.