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Top Quality Panerai Hand Wind Watches (316) Items
Top Quality Panerai Hand Wind Watches (316) Items

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  • Panerai - Yet Another Manufacture Caliber


    WORLDTEMPUS - October 4, 2010


    Panerai has come a long way: from the preferred timepiece of Italian military divers during World War II to a luxury watch brand with several in-house mechanisms ticking inside the oversized cases. The latest in this line is the P'3000, a Panerai manufacture caliber.


    Last week, Panerai's CEO Angelo Bonati welcomed loyal friends of the successful brand to the city of its birth: Florence. After talking about astronomy and the impressive Jupiterium, Bonati offered his guests a rare look at the Panerai collection starting with the very first prototype from 1936 and ending with the latest offerings—one of which was the remake of the 1942 Mare Nostrum introduced at the 2010 S.I.H.H. in Geneva.
    During Panerai's early years, the brand used only Rolex/Cortebert and Angelus movements in the first watches issuing from the Florentine family. Unitas mechanisms were introduced in many a historically inspired model when Panerai resurfaced in 1993. The Unitas mechanisms have been the solid tractors giving many a Paneristi great timekeeping pleasure throughout the years.
    It would now seem that the use of the Unitas 6497 manually wound caliber could well soon be a thing of the past, as Bonati introduced brand new Caliber P'3000 during the Time & Space exhibition in Florence.
    P'3000
    The P'3000 movement family begins with the 16 ½ line time-only base caliber that is 5.3 mm high. P'3000-1 contains small seconds; P'3000-2 has small seconds and a date; P'3000-3 adds a GMT function to the seconds and date. Ticking at 21,600 vph and containing 21 jewels, the P'3000 offers a three-day power reserve with twin serially operating spring barrels: The ticking sound originates in a wonderfully old-fashioned and rather large balance wheel that measures a whopping 13.2 mm.


    The P'3000 is a simple movement, indeed—simple as in solid and undoubtedly easily able to pass C.O.S.C., though this will not be a future option for the Panerai movements. "We will no longer put any of our movements through C.O.S.C.," Bonati confirmed during the presentation, instead opting for thorough in-house quality checks and "homemade" criteria suitable to modern watchmaking.
    Competing calibers


    With the introduction of Caliber P'3000, Panerai now boasts seven in-house movements. Early in 2010, Panerai had already introduced the manually wound P'999 in a 42 mm Radiomir. However, this mechanism was designed for the Asian market and meets demands of smaller watches—practically making the 42 mm Radiomir a ladies model.
    "Caliber P'999 does not fit into the larger Luminor cases," Bonati said in answer to the question concerning the P'3000 competing with the P'999.


    Not cheap
    The bridges are brushed and beveled, providing a wonderful view through a transparent case back—though it is not yet known what the actual watches will look like. The new models sporting the P'3000 movements will be shown at the 2011 S.I.H.H. in January, and will be offered through Panerai dealers just after the show at prices starting from € 5,000 to about 7,000. Not an inexpensive manually wound watch, even in terms of Panerai, but undoubtedly a smart step toward total autonomy, particularly once the Swatch Group tightens its distribution of external ebauche sales.

  • Chronicle - Bang! This is the Aero Bang Morgan

    22 May 2009 - www.fratellowatches.com

     
    I have been a watch enthusiast since I was a small boy, but since a decade or so, I am really passionate about them and read and learn as much as I can about watches. This knowledge and observations translate into articles I write every once in a while.
    I noticed that I am someone that needs a bit of time to get used to new models or trends. It took me a few years to get used to the size of large watches and remember I laughed at the ridiculous Panerai dimensions when I first noticed them. After having owned several Panerai watches myself, I got used to watches that easily exceed the 40mm diameter size.
    Hublot is a manufacturer of watches I also had to get used to. First, the Hublot MDM with rubber strap - Hublot was probably one of the first brands to introduce a non-diving watch with a rubber strap in 1980 - and later on the Hublot Big Bang. This time, it wasn't the size I had to get used to, but the high-end positioning of the watch (taking the former models into consideration) by Hublot and the whole look & feel of this particular watch. Also, the use of high-tech materials for their watches makes them a very progressive and interesting watch brand for many collectors. Big Bang is indeed the perfect name for this timepiece. Kudos to Jean-Claude Biver, who has put Hublot (back) on the map of haute horlogerie. In a recent copy of Revolution Magazine (also distributed by WorldTempus), Jean-Claude Biver is even referred to as being 'the reference in high watchmaking'.


    Having that said, the only thing that worries me is the number of limited editions the brand is launching every year. True, they are limited in number of production runs, but there are a lot of different limited editions. The market is probably in demand for limited editions, so consumers are able to distinguish from each other. Launching limited editions just for the sake of being limited is something that I can't get used to I guess.


    One of the recently introduced limited edition Hublot watches has truly a reason for being limited. It is the Hublot Aero Bang Morgan watch, limited to 500 pieces. This watch celebrates the 100th anniversary of the Morgan car company. The Aero Bang Morgan watch is inspired by the Morgan Aeromax car. The production of this hand-made sports vehicle is only limited to 100 cars. The lucky owners of one of these 100 cars get priority for the first 100 Aero Bang Morgan watches to be able to get a matching number.


    The Aero Bang Morgan has a case made out of ceramic and a steel-gray tungsten bezel, both materials that are very durable and used in the (racing) car and aircraft industry. The Morgan logo shines proudly on the dial at 9 o'clock, while it doesn't detract from the skeleton dial that reveals only a bit from the automatic winding chronograph movement. This movement - like in all Big Bang models - also features a tungsten rotor.

    The caseback of the watch is made out of black ceramic material, as you can see on the picture above.
    Now, besides being a bit reserved towards limited editions, the same goes for watch - car alliances. I never understood the IWC - AMG, Breitling - Bentley or the Jaeger-LeCoultre - Aston Martin cooperation for example. The same thing goes for the cooperation between Hublot and Morgan. Does Hublot really identify them selves with Morgan? Or did Morgan 'need' a watch to celebrate its 100th anniversary and wanted to offer something special for its customers? What exactly is their relationship?
    Cooperation like this shouldn't leave room for guessing why the brands started a joint venture in my humble opinion.
    As much as I do like the watch, I wouldn't pay premium because of the Morgan logo on the dial. Perhaps I would if I owned a Morgan Aeromax sports car, or when I am able to tell why the relationship between Hublot and Morgan is so close other than initiated because there was a fruitful encounter between Charles Morgan and the reference of high watchmaking, Jean-Claude Biver.
    Don't let this small remark hold you back from doing a price inquiry for this watch at your Hublot dealer.

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