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Top Quality Oris 42.00 mm Watches (65) Items
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Top Quality Oris 42.00 mm Watches (65) Items
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Replica Oris 42.00 mm Watches Latest Reviews

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  • Power reserves - A major gap

    The vast majority of mechanical movements have a 46-hour power reserve. Once off the wrist and without any energy supply, watches thus equipped run for barely two days before stopping. This figure largely determines the relationship we have with our watch and its daily reality.
    This de facto standard is however being shaken up by two types of advancements. The first is the appearance of a new minimum of around 60 hours that has been adopted for a dozen or so brands that have launched a new movement in recent years. 60 hours is a time span that enables a wearer to take his or her watch off on a Friday evening and slip it back on again on the following Monday morning when returning to the office.

    The second breakthrough is a large wave of innovations in the field of running time. For a long time, the only choice was between two days or eight days - the latter option being a symbolic figure inherited from carriage clocks. Within the space of a decade, models covering the entire spectrum of durations ranging from 2 to 14 days have emerged and autonomy records have been successively shattered. Images are more eloquent than texts when it comes to consulting the power-reserve rankings, and our photo gallery is provided here as a means of presenting them by order and in the (metal) flesh .

    Nonetheless, this extremely palpable performance that proves so useful to the wearer is based on a mechanical approach. There is no one single solution for extending movements' autonomy. As a first option, sometimes all that is required is to rework the geometry of an escapement in order to reduce its energy consumption and to thereby - literally mechanically - extend its running time from two to three days.

    Other brands adopt the most obvious choice: playing with the size of the 'storage tank', meaning the barrel. The latter cylinder-shaped component houses a long coiled spring - the mainspring - that is tautened by winding and releases the energy thus accumulated according to the movement's needs. All it takes to make the energy last longer is a longer spring contained within a larger barrel. This effective solution is used by Oris to achieve a ten-day power reserve and by A. Lange & Söhne to reach 31 days - albeit such feats can lead to other issues relating to the enormous power that has to be harnessed.

    The third approach taken by some is to multiply the number of barrels. Two in many cases, four for Chopard, seven for Jacob & Co. and a current maximum of 11 with the MP-05 LaFerrari by Hublot. This particular means is formidably efficient, since the latter models respectively achieve 30 and 50-day running times. In return, one has to be prepared for a generously sized watch, since housing that many barrels takes space and can beef up watches to a quite outrageous extent. But the best way of sugar-coating the pill of such admittedly large cases is to accompany them with an original and powerful design - which incidentally works out pretty well, since such watches are intended to attract attention…

  • DeWitt - Unique X-Watch

    Montres DeWitt is honoured to have been invited to participate in the Only Watch 2011 Charity Auction in favour of research programmes on the Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD), to be held in Monaco on September 23 under the high patronage and in presence of S.A.S. Le Prince Albert II of Monaco. After a first participation in 2005 and, in 2007, the presentation of the WX-1 (concept watch no 1), an exceptionally complicated horological piece of art, DeWitt is presenting this year yet another masterpiece: the X-Watch.
     

    Reversible is not enough !
    For its third concept watch, DeWitt is continuing its exploration of reversible watches. The mechanism, initially inspired from a concrete mixer, was already masterfully executed in The Antipode (concept watch no 2) and confers both a spectacular liveliness and a playful twist to the watch. But for the
    X-Watch, reversible was not enough ! DeWitt therefore imagined a spectacular articulated "bonnet" in the shape of an "X" that partly covers the face of the watch. A typical DeWitt approach that intends to arouse curiosity by hiding some parts of the mechanism in a subtle game of layers. The "X"-shaped bonnet is activated by four push-pieces positioned in the upper and lower part of the case. By pressing the push-pieces, the "X" separates in its middle and smoothly opens up to disclose the face of the watch. A special mechanism was integrated to control the speed of its opening. The rotation of the 49 mm Grade 5 Titanium case is only liberated when the "X" is in the open position. The case can then be flipped over and locked again by closing the "X". Quite naturally, the "X" is designed in such a way that all the features of the watch remain perfectly readable even when the bonnet is in its closed position.
    In house is beautiful !
    The X-Watch houses DeWitt's third 100% in-house manufactured movement, Calibre DW 8046. One single reversible movement displaying bi-retrograde hours and minutes on each side and featuring an automatic Tourbillon, a Chronograph and a patented Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor. Built out of some 544 components, the calibre DW 8046 is the perfect illustration of the inventive audacity of DeWitt's master watchmakers.
    A.S.W. or the art of mastering energy distribution !
    The peripheral oscillating rotor is attached to a ring with a sinusoidal profile on its inner edge. This particular shape will, in turn, activate the patented A.S.W system which enables the movement to always operate in an ideal functioning range, between 92 and 96% of the main-spring torque. The main gear-train is therefore guaranteed to always receive a constant and stable flow of energy thanks to the sequenced winding of the barrel.


    Indeed, two little arms, rocking up and down the sinusoidal profile, ensure the winding of the barrel until it reaches 96% of the movement's full winding. At that moment, a lever disengages the pawl from winding the barrel and forces it to continue its movement in the air, without hooking on to the wheel. The movement then runs on its reserves of energy, until it reaches 92%, and the pawl hooks back on. Such a technical prowess enables to obtain an ideal functioning range with the usage of a single, manual-type barrel. Moreover, it avoids all the running defects observed when slip-springs are used on conventional automatic calibres.
     
    Unidentified flying object !
    The upper side of the dial is adorned in its centre with a rhodium plated and polished applique in the shape of an hourglass. In its upper part, a window displays a 120 degree power reserve indicator, an indispensable feature to observe the short back and forth movement of the hand when the watch is operating in its ideal functioning range and the A.S.W. is in action. In the lower part, the actual motor of this unidentified flying object is revealed through a nicely proportioned opening. A small seconds hand is attached to the Tourbillon cage and gently glides round. The hourglass applique is also decorated with the "DeWitt" logo, and elegant vertical lines remind us of the finishing given to the peripheral rotor (visible on the other side). In the background, a nice atmosphere is given by a sunray guilloche pattern that radiates right out to the two retrograde counters. The hours and minutes hands are rhodium plated and positioned on the same axis. Both hours and minutes are read from bottom to top, with the hours West and the minutes East. When the "X"-shaped bonnet is closed, everything remains, except the mere symbol of passage of time, the hourglass.
    A sporty skeleton !
    On the lower side of the dial, the hidden face of the X-Watch ! Operating on the same movement, a skeleton chronograph with disk seconds indication and a 3-arm minutes hand covering a 30 minute time span on 3 different levels. The peripheral oscillating rotor, streamlined and with elegant rose gold finishings, travels freely around the dial and is a marvel to observe. Since the crown and the two chronograph push-pieces must remain on the right hand side, the watch itself is turned by 180 degrees. The disk seconds indication, placed underneath the Tourbillon, is therefore now positioned in the upper part of the dial. A polished and rhodium plated cover is placed over the disk, leaving only a small window opening to display the passing seconds. The cover is also decorated with the "DeWitt" logo. The minutes, in the lower part of the dial and printed on the sapphire glass, are positioned on 3 different levels. A 3-arm rose gold hand with small disks on each tip covers the three 10-minute levels in a single rotation.

    In order to best valorise this skeleton side of the movement and its sporty twist, a blackened nickel silver plate 1,0 mm thick and with no less than 58 holes had to be placed in the middle of the movement to separate both sides. On this side of the watch, the positioning of the two retrograde hours and minutes hands on one single axis is also revealed. However, hours and minutes are now read from top to bottom.

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Oris 42.00 mm

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