Zenith - A long history with aviation
WORLDTEMPUS - 7 March 2012
"Zenith has a very long history of pilot's watches," says the brand's energetic CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour. "Actually, Leon Morane, who was the first pilot in the world to exceed a speed of 100 km/h, already wore a Zenith watch in 1910. And at the beginning of the twentieth century, when air travel began, Zenith was among the first to produce aviation instruments."
This explains why the brand is introducing such a range of aviation-styled wristwatches this year at Baselworld. The one bound to be the talk of the fair is the 57.5 mm polished titanium Montre d'Aeronef Type 20.
"Louis Bleriot already owned a Zenith watch when crossing the English Channel in 1912 and we have a letter from him saying, 'I am very satisfied with the Zenith watch, which I usually use, and I cannot recommend it too highly to people who are looking for precision.' Today's Pilot Aeronef Type 20 is a C.O.S.C.-certified chronometer and contains the famous 5011 pocket watch caliber that was very successful for Zenith in the 1960s - and in 1967 was named the most accurate chronometer ever tested by the Neuchâtel Observatory. The same caliber has historically been used in marine chronometers and pocket watches and now for the first time as a wristwatch," Dufour continues.
The modern rendition of this hand-wound 50 mm caliber is, of course, a reissue manufactured from original plans. Beating at 18,000 vph, it offers maximum stability and independent hacking seconds so that it can be synchronized with a time signal. The size of this striking wristwatch coupled with its vintage look is certain to attract some attention - but only for 250 lucky collectors since this watch only comes in a limited edition.
Historical continuity
"It was very important to me to construct continuity around the historical facts and wonderful stories that make an integral part of our brand," Dufour continues. "This year we are launching three timepieces in this collection: the Pilot Aeronef Type 20, the Pilot Special Big Date and the Pilot Doublematic, a worldtimer chronograph with alarm function."
The Pilot Doublematic is powered by automatic El Primero Caliber 4046. This 45 mm timepiece available in stainless steel or rose gold is a fairly complicated timekeeper: it includes a chronograph, world time, a large date, an alarm and a power reserve display for the alarm. Beating at the usual high frequency of 36,000 vph that the El Primero caliber offers, it boasts 50 hours of power reserve.
If you think this slew of pilot's watches is amazing, wait until you hear the final thing Dufour had to say. "The name 'Pilot' is patented by Zenith." Will wonders never cease?
Zenith - A renewed heritage
Named "the first" as a symbol of its precedence, its primacy and its universality, the original El Primero chronograph movement is an innovative masterpiece that has since become a benchmark in its field. Having subtly evolved over the years while retaining its signature characteristics, it now appears as an El Primero 469 calibre that is showcased to striking effect in the Collection New Vintage 69, reflecting a vintage model now endowed with a decidedly contemporary touch.
Its balance oscillating at the extraordinary speed of 36,000 vibrations per hour enables this unique movement to ensure 1/10th of a second accuracy. The fully integrated movement design takes up a minimum of space while guaranteeing reliable and precise measurement of short times. The entire 'orchestra' of 278 strategically positioned and finely tuned components is governed by a prestigious 'conductor' in the shape of a column wheel coordinating orders transmitted via the push-buttons. The oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Geneve can be viewed through the transparent sapphire crystal fitted in the case-back of the New Vintage 69 model.
The distinctive lines of the original case have been redesigned to create an even more powerful, clean-cut effect. The double glareproofed sapphire crystal ensures an optimal view of the shiny plain black dial graced with applied hand-fitted hour-markers coated with Superluminova, as well as the black beadblasted hands with white Superluminova. The use of this luminescent substance, along with a clever play on contrasting colours, serves to ensure excellent legibility in all circumstances.
The central hour and minute hands are complemented by small seconds on a subdial at 9 o'clock and a date window at 4.30, while the chronograph functions comprise a central seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o'clock respectively, as well as a tachometric scale around the dial rim serving to measure the speed of travel. This sophisticated timekeeping instrument is teamed with an elegant strap in black alligator leather complete with stainless steel pin buckle.
Embodying the finest horological accomplishments expressed through invigorated styling, the New Vintage 69 Collection is indeed an eloquent symbol of enduring excellence.