Chanel - Shades of Grey
WORLDTEMPUS - 31 March 2011
When a powerhouse like Chanel decided to create a watch department, it was clear that it would come up with something really special. And it did: the J12 rapidly became one of the iconic timepieces of the new millennium, going further in the use of ceramics than pioneers Rado (which specialized more in surface finishing) and establishing the trend of white and black ceramic timepieces that many other brands have followed.
If white and black are the emblematic colors of Chanel, the newest star in the brand's watch line unveiled at Baselworld comes in grey - in many shades of grey, actually. With the J12 Chromatic, the French marque not only gave the J12 collection new impetus, but also invented a new tone. For some time, Chanel's research & development department had been looking for a way to keep the focus on its flagship model through the use of new color or new complication; the final option was to work on an unprecedented alloy for watchmaking. After two years, the brand came up with the so-called chromatic: titanium ceramics, based on the joining of titanium and ceramics with a concluding polishing with diamond powder that makes the surface shine in a unique way.
Tinged by surrounding colors
The material is no longer injected as with mineral ceramics during the various production stages; it's pressed. The final tone, just like mercury, is moldable by the surrounding colors: it absorbs light and becomes tinged while keeping the greyish aura.
Titanium ceramics is harder and lighter than mineral ceramics, but also much more difficult to polish, meaning that the new alloy required finding new polishing techniques and procedures - in the end, only diamond can scratch the surface of the new J12 Chromatic line, which was introduced at Baselworld in seven versions comprising three different case diameters and three different executions: the clean J12 Chromatic Classic (41, 38 and 33 mm), the sumptuous J12 Chromatic Baguette-Cut Diamonds (38 and 33 mm), and the sparkling J12 Chromatic Diamonds (also 38 and 33 mm).
Other new products were unveiled such as the J12 Exclusive Editions, including a chronograph set with baguette-cut diamonds worth more than 500,000 euros; the 42 mm J12 powered by an Audemars Piguet caliber, and the feminine Premiere Triple Tour. However, the Chromatic was clearly the star of the show and will certainly carve out yet another new path for others to follow.
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