Omega Constellation Automatic Mother of Pearl Dial Steel and Rose Gold Diamond Ladies Watch 12325272005002

One of the major introductions from Baselworld 2011 was, of course, Omega's new chronograph caliber. I was therefore quite disappointed when a Swatch Group scheduling glitch occurred and I missed my chance to see it. "These things happen," I thought and did my utmost to try to get down to the factory in the ensuing months - to no avail. I just seemed destined to miss out on seeing what I suspected was going to be a truly excellent product. In October, my chance suddenly appeared: my French-language colleague at Worldtempus Louis Nardin had arranged a test period with just this watch (

read his story here). Sometimes I am amazed at the way things work out.
 

The legend
Despite a reminiscent resemblance to Rolex, the Speedmaster has been able to carve out a fixed place for itself in history thanks to the legendary journey it took to the moon on the wrist of Neil Armb in 1969. Back then this watch originally introduced in 1957 ran on a manually wound Lemania that Omega called Caliber 321.
It's hard to mess with a legend and come out on top, but Omega has done an admirable job of it. This beefed up version of the Speedmaster measures a full 44.25 mm in diameter. It is perhaps this large size that gives it such a different feel and look as compared to the previous versions, which were either 38 or 39 mm.
 

The obvious
Aside from the size, aficionados will notice a few obvious differences between this new version and previous, more classic versions. The chronograph totalizers are bicompax rather than tricompax, a date window has been added to the 6 o'clock position and the ten-minute/stop-second numerals have been left off the new dial design. These three design elements alone have been enough to raise the hackles of collectors, leading some to even ask me outright while I was wearing the watch, "Is this a proper Speedmaster?"
While this is a question that can only be answered individually, my answer to this question would be a resounding, "Yes, it is a proper Speedmaster." A dial - which is the most important and doubtlessly the deciding factor in any wristwatch - is always a question of balance and proportions. While the dial has been slightly transformed, this was necessary because the entire size of the case had changed, making it more contemporary. 
Also, in my estimation, the changed elements serve to clean up the dial a bit and make it fresher and cleaner. This, naturally, precludes that it loses a bit of its instrument character, but then so be it. The end look is attractive and compelling, a fact that I came to appreciate more and more as I wore this flawlessly functioning chronograph.
Also, and this is important for me, the changed proportions, cleaner dial and bicompax chronograph totalizers make it appear less Rolex-y than its predecessors. I know I risk some backlash with that statement, but it has always been a detracting factor in my eyes. The transformation is a good one.
 

The caliber
The original Speedmasters ran on Lemania movements, which were not created specifically for this model. This new Speedmaster, which is officially named Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph (Reference 311.30.44.51.01.002), is the first to be fitted with a movement that was created specifically for it. Omega Caliber 9300 is automatic, column wheel-controlled, and contains a co-axial escapement with a free-sprung silicon balance spring and two serially operating spring barrels for 60 hours of power reserve. Though I did not time the chronograph on a Witschi (that is not what our Worldtempus tests aim to prove), I can say that the caliber was extremely accurate and that 60 hours of power reserve is really excellent - you can put it down over the weekend and not have to wind it again on Monday morning. As I am not a watchmaker, I wouldn't want to venture a guess as to whether the co-axial provides more accuracy that a regular Swiss lever escapement with the same attributes. In my estimation, it is at least as precise.
One collector asked me during the test phase if the date changes exactly at midnight: a valid question. The answer is no, it's not an instantaneous change. The changeover lasts about ten minutes or so - not a bad balance.

The bottom line
At $8,700 this stainless steel sports watch is not necessarily overpriced. Comparable Rolex models are commensurate in price: the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in stainless steel currently costs $8,000.
The updates to this model are justified and well executed; after all, a simple reproduction would be ultimately boring, like hearing a cover version of a song that hasn't been changed at all except for the fact that a different group is performing it. In fact, the changes contain new codes that correspond to our era and our generation. Welcome to 2011, Omega Speedmaster.