Montblanc Tradition White Dial Black Leather Automatic Men's Watch 112611

GMT - Spring-summer-2009

A relative newcomer to the watch market, Montblanc has carved out an exceptional place for itself in record time. While the brand's first steps in watchmaking gave rise to some modest yet pretty decent products, the takeover of the Manufacture Minerva in Villeret now earns Montblanc a well-deserved spot at the top of the range. The "Villeret" Single-pusher Chronograph featured in this test will doubtless serve to confirm this status. 

The exterior: 

In keeping with its image, Montblanc does not set out to be a third-millennium watchmaking "architect". Ultimate elegance and classic yet unique style are the distinguishing features of both the brand and this chronograph. The 46mm-diameter case features generous proportions, along with a few surprises. The choice of a convex radius for the bezel guarantees magnificent light effects and avoids an over-bulky appearance. 

A huge technical difficulty has been surmounted in order to fine-tune a tiny detail: along the 12-6 o'clock axis, the bezel followed the curve of the caseband and lugs, creating a stunning visual impact. This double curve is clearly visible from the side, while the equally cambered case-back reinforces this aesthetic appeal by adding a discreet yet effective touch of comfort for the wearer. Viewed from above, the lugs feature an attractive stepped design, while the dial radiates an understated elegance typical of the finest chronographs from the 1930s to 1950s: white enamel with black transfers and subtle gold fillet motifs. The Roman numeral hour-circle occupies the centre, while the chronograph hand minute circle appears around the outer dial circumference, enabling fast and easy read-off. A classic example of aesthetic refinement matched by user-friendly functionality. The full-grain crocodile leather strap is attached by a straight bar placed beneath two metal inserts clad in the same leather. This subtle feature affords the two-fold advantage: the possibility of using a slender and thus fairly supple and comfortable strap; as well as guaranteeing seamless continuity on even the smallest wrists. 

Therein lies another ingenious surprise. When removing the watch from the wrist, if you pull on the lower section of the strap, the latter exercises vertical pressure on the insert at 6 o'clock. The insert then swivels upwards and releases - much like a secret drawer - the bolt securing the case-back, which opens to reveal a sapphire crystal through which one can admire the genuine treasure inside! 

Movement: 

"Cal. 16-29" bearing the "Minerva Villeret" signature features a level of a quality one would like to see more of. Not that there is anything revolutionary about this hand-wound movement. Its large dimensions guarantee extremely accurate rating, while the diameter and the inertia of the balance soon make this apparent. While giving new life to such a calibre is already an impressive feat in its own right, the degree of finishing verges on perfection. Bevelled and polished bridges and steel parts, jewels set in gold chatons, hand-drawn flanks as well as the micrometrical index assembly are a source of intense emotions for an informed observer. The integration of the balance-cock and the shape of the mirror-polished swan's neck deserve a special mention, as indeed does the entire index assembly. My personal favourite is the finish of the arrow-shaped brake.

Three pages would scarcely suffice to list the superlative qualities of this single-pusher chronograph - on which all the controls are of course arranged around a five-column wheel. What more can one say, if not that only a single German brand has perhaps achieved this degree of finish over the past fifty years? 

Testing: 

The meticulous finish of each of the movement components naturally results in an exemplary daily rate. In keeping with the grand tradition of this type of hand-wound chronographs, the balance beats at a cadence of 18,000 vibrations per hour. When fully wound, the rates measured in 6 positions range between 0 and + 3 seconds per day. A mere 35° difference in amplitude was measured between the horizontal and vertical positions - a rare feat for a regulating organ with such a degree of inertia and oscillating at 2.5 Hz. After 24 hours in operation, the overall amplitudes had dropped 40° and all rates remained within the -1/+5 second/day bracket. A chronometer-worthy result. 

Handling is smooth and easy and winding is a delight. Positioned co-axially to the pusher, the crown is comfortable large and its broad ridges ensure an excellent grip. The musical tone of the winding click makes you want to leave your self-winding watches in a desk drawer. The chronograph functions are direct and straightforward. Another undeniable asset of this movement is the fact that the intermediate wheel lever runs over an extremely wide radius and its travel is very limited. The potential angular displacement error is thereby minimised, as is the response time. Finally,one might almost feel a tinge of regret at this almost over comfortable feel on the wrist, which tends to make you forget the watch you are wearing. 

By way of conclusion: 

Montblanc definitely benefits from the synergetic effects and the watchmaking experience of the group to which it belongs. Nonetheless, while it is the Richemont executives who have defined the brand strategies and positioning, they achieved a real master stroke in buying up and making the most of the fabulous Minerva heritage. The gorgeous Villeret Single-pusher Chronograph tested for this article stems from a limited series of 58 in rose gold. Nor is this a mere one-shot, since the entire range is truly stunning. Apart from the total absence of any negative criticism emerging from this testing bench, I must also confess to falling helplessly in love with this watch!