Roger Dubuis - Reshaping the portfolio
WORLDTEMPUS - 4 February 2011"Daring, incredible, exciting!" Marketing director Christine Louvet positively spewed descriptive buzzwords as she presented the new products issuing from Geneva-based watch company Roger Dubuis. This brand saw the light of day in 1996 when Portuguese entrepreneur Carlos Dias and extraordinary watchmaker Roger Dubuis created their first two watches, which were christened Hommage and Sympathie.
Fast forward to 2011. Neither the man behind the name nor the man behind the money is still with the company the two created. Roger Dubuis - the brand - is now owned by Richemont and in the midst of a radical makeover designed to streamline the 15 in-house movements as well as the many, many references called to life during the company's highly productive 16 years.
Louvet also underlined, "It is important for us to improve our relationship to our clients," and, "quality has been priority number one since the Richemont takeover." These remarks clearly illustrate the issues that had cast a shadow over the Roger Dubuis brand in the last years of Dias's ownership.
Casino and Chesterfield
At SIHH 2011, Louvet's "daring, incredible, and exciting" lines were transformed into a brand-new collection called La Monegasque. This name was inspired by the Lilliputian state of Monaco and its "daring" and "exciting" James Bond world of thrilling casino play.
La Monegasque's case shape resembles the very first timepiece that left Roger Dubuis's Geneva premises in 1996, Sympathie. The new dials, layout, and functions are, however, toned down in comparison to the creative craziness that former owner Dias clearly preferred. The new management, for the moment under the auspices of IWC CEO Georges Kern, is already making its mark. As highly in evidence at the IWC and Baume & Mercier booths, Kern has taken to "telling stories" with his brands in 2011 - with Roger Dubuis's obviously taking place in southern France.
The La Monegasque line encompasses three models in stainless steel or gold: a 42-millimeter time-only with small seconds, a 44-millimeter chronograph (with a 44-millimeter perpetual version), and a limited edition 44-milimeter chronograph called Big Number that boasts a wonderful, thick strap inspired by Chesterfield furniture by Italian shoemaker Santoni.
Because the distinct green-and-red roulette design is only utilized on the limited edition chronograph La Monegasque Big Number, some visitors to the booth were left wondering why Monaco and its world of casino was the brand's main theme. Indeed, the "story" is the means to the end here, and it is this debonair, thrill-seeking motif that the brand is now striving to add to the wristwatches' essence from the outside.
Some friendly help
The La Monegasque line was designed by 41-year-old Lionel Favre in collaboration with IWC's chief designer, Christian Knoop. "Under the supervision of Georges Kern, we created the Monegasque collection in less than nine months, concentrating on dial design," smiles Favre as he remembers how fast they worked. Speaking to Knoop later that week, it was confirmed that he also truly enjoyed working on Roger Dubuis's new products, agreeing with Favre's enthusiastic take.
Thrill-seeking design
Was the name of the new collection perhaps decided upon to merely to suck up to European wealth by using the name of the popular gaming state? Favre reply is not surprising, "Yes and no. Gaming is popular all over the world, not least in Asia. Traditional gambling is thrill-seeking to everybody."
Naturally, Favre is correct. Think of the former Portuguese colonial island Macau, just off the coast of central Hong Kong. This hotspot for many game watch aficionados is the perfect place to purchase the next luxury timepiece after the ball has landed on a lucky number.
Lucky numbers
Speaking of numbers, Roger Dubuis will still offer editions of 28, 88 and 128 pieces. According to Asian belief, the lucky number 8 stands for prosperity. Other models are will have non-limited production.
Numbers in terms of pricing range from 14,000-67,000 Swiss francs, with the latter the gold perpetual calendar.