Hublot Big Bang Madre Perla Men's Watch 341.SG.6004.LS.194

WORLDTEMPUS - 10 February, 2010
Elizabeth Doerr

Jean-Claude Biver's mood didn't match the cloudy weather in Valencia on the first day of the 2010 America's Cup races. Hublot, as the new sponsor, was glad to welcome guests and press to the new "fusion" version of the celebrated regatta.
As the first planned race was called off due to unsuitable weather, Biver had plenty of time to talk about his plans for the BNB watchmakers Hublot took over upon the demise of the creative movement maker two weeks ago.

Space issues
The extra space Biver had optimistically built right into Hublot's new Nyon factory was going to be temporarily used by LVMH group sister brand Chaumet. Before that could be put into effect, however, the bankruptcy of BNB—Hublot's source for complicated movements—made a partial takeover by Hublot a reality; the space is now being used for the displaced machinery and about 30 watchmakers, 28 of whom have already signed contracts. "We found Chaumet other factory space in Nyon," Biver reported.
Confrerie Horlogere
Biver also revealed during the interview that the creative artisans of BNB's celebrated Confrerie Horlogere, an innovative grouping of individualized projects by talented artisans, are among the 30 watchmakers he plans to take over. Biver plans on continuing BNB founder Mathias Buttet's original concept. As of February 8, Buttet himself had not yet signed, but Biver expects him to do so, citing his ideas as creative and groundbreaking.
"I can do so much good for the Confrerie in terms of financial and other support," Biver stated. "The Confrerie has a very bright future indeed." According to Biver all the Confrerie watchmakers, who he considers the creme de la creme in terms of talent, have signed and the new incarnation will be called Confrerie Horlogere Hublot from here on out.
Most of the exciting projects will be carried on according to Buttet's original vision with the exception of what Biver terms movements that are "too simple"—in other words, anything less complicated than a tourbillon chronograph (which BNB delivered to its customers as a serial movement anyway).
Movement exclusivity
There has been much speculation as to how Biver plans to handle third parties and prospective movement sales. Biver indeed has a simple answer: the fact that BNB customers owed the movement maker about 9.2 million Swiss francs aided in its demise. Biver does not intend to supply the companies who contributed to the bankruptcy.
Moreover, the Confrerie Horlogere movements will exclusively remain reserved for the use of the limited label for a period of about two years, after which they may become part of Hublot's "prêt-a-porter" arsenal of movements.
Coupled with ETA's announcement to stop outside deliveries as of next year, this may well mean the demise of some of the high-end companies that have popped out of the woodwork in the last decade as unusual luxury watchmaking became trendy. Biver plans to sell movements to "deserving" companies able to pay according to usual business practices. He does not plan to sell movements to "just any producer," but rather only to established manufacturers of good reputation.
Biver, incidentally, wholeheartedly supports Nicolas G. Hayek's decision to restrict the sale of ETA movements. "I support a better survey of who should be allowed to purchase movements according to their credibility, worthiness, and ability to pay," he said. "Movements will only go to an exclusive network of selected producers and they must be sufficiently prestigious and serious."
The resulting scarcity of both ETA and BNB mechanisms for sale may well act as an ambitious spring cleaning for the watch industry. "Hayek will bring order to it, and that is a good thing," Biver added.
Valjoux 7750
Biver also plans on continuing Hublot's use of the world's most popular and reliable chronograph movement, the ETA Valjoux 7750. His reasoning is simple: he does not want to cause existing Hublot customers to feel their Big Bangs outfitted with the tried-and-tested workhorse are devalued. The watches soon to be powered with Hublot's own Unico movement will not only cost 15 percent more, but will look much different as the chronograph subassembly is mounted on the front and will therefore be visible under the transparent dial.
The Big Bang customers will, however, have the option to upgrade their watches with the new Unico chronograph movement if they so choose.
By the year 2015, Biver expects to sell about 30,000 watches annually. A good 20,000 of these are planned to be powered by in-house Hublot movements.