Bell & Ross - Military Chic
WORLDTEMPUS - 18 April 2011
Bell & Ross brought new codes to the conservative Swiss watch industry: founded in 1992 by Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, and with Chanel as a shareholder from 1998 on, the Paris-based brand blends the graphic language of the fashion world and the spirit of military instruments to establish a b corporate identity - chiefly using black & white.
One could say that Bell & Ross has been promoting a sophisticated Parisian notion of black in watchmaking over the course of the past decade, though the brand also incorporates a self-proclaimed neo-classic military style. Among several offerings in many shades of black unveiled at Baselworld, the star of the 2011 collection is even dubbed WW1, a nod to the World War 1 era when pocket watches were making the historical transition to officers' wrists. Which is why the Vintage WW1 (Wrist Watch 1) model was introduced at the same time as the Vintage PW1 (Pocket Watch 1); together, they exemplify an important step in the evolution of the brand's timepieces.
"The WW1 is the first chapter. It represents a return to the origin of the military watch and the wristwatch. It completes our story," explained marketing and communications director Roberto Passariello during Baselworld. "We're quite happy with how our collection has evolved and customers seem to be as well. And the new Asian customers seem to understand the minimalism that characterizes our brand."
Dark and instrumental
This new-vintage/neo-retro style is certainly one of the major trends of late in watchmaking. The Vintage WW1, with pocket-watch-styled lugs and a domed sapphire crystal, perfectly fits that nostalgic trend. Its 1920s aura goes full circle for Bell & Ross, as the brand has been tweaking other case formats (the square BR 01, the tonneau BR 02, the rectangular BR Minuteur) to better pay homage to the pilots of the '40s and the '50s who wore wristwatches as an essential instrument with high legibility.
Beside case format, the Franco-Swiss brand has also been trying out different shades of black: innovative new technologies allow the use of resistant dark coatings, from PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) to carbon, in order to protect the surface or get that contemporary black sophistication.
Skulls on the radar
If the understated aesthetics of the dark new Original Carbon Black line are reminiscent of old dashboards, the iconic square BR 01 Instrument originated in a cockpit clock - it fully replicates the shape of cockpit instrumentation panels. Bell & Ross introduced a new BR 01-92 in a 46 mm black ceramic case and even a second addition to the Radar family. The novel BR 01-92 Red Radar, inspired by air traffic control radars, stunningly shows a display of discs underneath a red mineral crystal. Additionally, Bell & Ross introduced new versions of the 42 mm BR 03 and the 39 mm BR S as well as two more Airborne models featuring the emblematic skull.
The aesthetic appeal of Bell & Ross is mirrored in the brand's design principles - clear visual indicators inspired by instrument panels and special functions intended for specific uses. Plain yet sophisticated, call it military chic.
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