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Top Quality Oris Black Watches (184) Items
Top Quality Oris Black Watches (184) Items

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  • Louis Moinet - Memoris chronograph-watch

    Barely ten years in the business, the revived Louis Moinet brand faced an incredible challenge after the surprise discovery just two years ago that the famous watchmaker after whom the brand is named had actually invented the first chronograph in 1815, predating Adolphe Nicole's patent of 1862 by nearly a half a century. Not only had Moinet produced the stopwatch far ahead of its time, he had also created one that operated at a frequency that even today is unimaginable. The device was called a "compteur de tierce", since a "tierce" in the French of the time meant one sixtieth of a second. To measure this, the world's first chronograph operated at 216,000 vibrations per hour, or a frequency of 10 Hz.

    But back to the challenge: The horological world, and Louis Moinet, celebrate the bi-centenary of the invention this year and in just two years the brand had to come up with something that would celebrate its tenth anniversary and do justice to its newly discovered watchmaking heritage. The result is the Memoris, the world's first "chronograph-watch". Put simply, it turns the usual chronograph movement configuration on its head: the chronograph functions are housed on top of the movement mainplate and the timekeeping elements effectively become a "complication" hidden beneath them.

    The chronograph deconstructed
    The fact that Louis Moinet has given pride of place to the chronograph mechanism means that its workings are laid bare and can be admired in all their detail, without any elements of the timekeeping functions obstructing them. At the heart of the chronograph is a column wheel, which is the most essential of the 147 components of the chronograph mechanism (which in turn account for almost half of the 302 components in the watch). The column wheel is the central processor of the mechanism, translating the movement from each press on the monopusher into a rotation that either blocks or releases the components interacting with it (minute hammer, brake and clutch).

    Just as the column wheel is traditionally the sign of a superior chronograph, Louis Moinet believes that tradition also dictates that all three functions (stop, start and reset) should be activated by a single pushbutton, which is found at 2 o'clock on the case. Not wishing to push things to the extremes of the compteur des tierce and the headache that would cause for the power reserve, Louis Moinet has coupled its unique chronograph to a 4 Hz movement in its LM54 calibre, which offers 48 hours of power reserve and offers its own signature feature.

    Energie Plus
    Louis Moinet has devised its own automatic pawl winding system to get the most out of each swing of the oscillating mass. "Energie Plus" () consists of an excentric plate with two click levers in a "crab-claw" design and captures the movements of the oscillating mass in both directions to transmit 30% more energy to the barrel spring than a conventional self-winding system. Furthermore ultra-lightweight miniature ceramic ball bearings, each with a diameter of just 0.397mm, allow the bi-metallic oscillating mass to swing more freely and thus further improve the energy transmission.

    From scratch
    To house all 302 components of this movement, Louis Moinet redeveloped practically every element of what is known in French as the "habillage", in other words everything that "clothes" the movement. As such the case, hands, dial, oscillating weight and even the foldover clasp are new. The gold case alone consists of 52 individual components and includes a screw-on transparent case back, screwed-in black zircon settings on all four lugs and a patent pending crown protector.

    Only 180 of the memorable Memoris chronograph-watches will be made, 60 in 18-carat red gold, 60 in 18-carat white gold with a rhodium-plated mainplate and 60 in 18-carat white gold with a blued mainplate.

  • Julien Coudray - The 10 keys to Julien Coudray

    All those acquainted with Julien Coudray 1518, raise their hands! Some may be vaguely aware of the brand name, others of its creations that arrive in sparing quantities on the market, and others may know some of the people behind it. On the whole, however, Julien Coudray 1518 remains somewhat mysterious. WorldTempus raises the veil on ten key elements of the Manufacture.

    1. An integrated - and shared - Manufacture
    Julien Coudray 1518 is a Manufacture that has just reached its fifth anniversary. So how has this integration been achieved so rapidly? Perhaps because like many others, such as Greubel Forsey and its partnership with Complitime, Julien Coudray 1518 operates in tandem with IMH, the technical source of its production. IMH develops and produces for Julien Coudray 1518, but not exclusively so, since the brand has several external clients.

    2. A Swiss-Belgian brand
    In January 2015, Julien Coudray 1518 was entirely taken over by an independent family shareholder of Belgian nationality, Joris Ide (along with his son Enzo), who already owned the Lebeau-Couraly watch brand that informed connoisseurs noticed in Hall 1.1 at Baselworld this year. The two brands operate in parallel in two very distinct segments, but they are both served by the shared IMH production facility.

    3. Snob-free metals
    Julien Coudray 1518 specifically precludes from its production all 'snob' metals in the literal sense of the term - meaning those that are sin nobilitas, lacking nobility, or commonplace. That is why the youthful brand uses only four metals: white, yellow and red gold, as well as platinum.

    4. Watchmaking ingot
    The Manufacture has a very special attribute: all its components are machined from a single one-kilo block of these metals. From this precious ingot, Julien Coudray 1518 carves out the case, hands, as well as many other components that are not made of traditional brass as is generally done in these modern times. In the case of a platinum model, even the bridges are made of platinum.

    5. Bye bye galvano
    Julien Coudray 1518 has proscribed any electroplating surface treatments on its creations. Its range will therefore never comprise any rhodium-plated components. All will instead feature a finish - generally a mirror (or specular) polish - applied to the pure metal surface.

    6. Four years, four references
    Julien Coudray is fond of figures. The brand whose name includes the number 1518 has so far developed and produced four models: the 1515, 1528, 1548 and 1588. Contrary to appearances, these do not refer to dates, but to a century (the 16th) followed by the number of watches to be produced for each reference concerned. The 1515 is thus issued in a 15-piece edition, the 1528 in a 28-piece series, etc. Since Julien Coudray produces only one or two watches per month, this road map will take the firm until at least 2020!

    7. Extremely vertical integration
    Julien Coudray regroups 30 people exercising 40 different professions, most of which exist individually in traditional Manufactures. Very few however - or in fact none at all - can lay claim to such a ratio between a very small number of employees and an impressively broad range of skills.

    8. Boundless tradition
    This is a deliberate policy and is observed to the letter: Julien Coudray 1518 honours watchmaking traditions by refusing to use any modern or high-tech materials. By way of example, despite the incomparable breakthrough technological advantages afforded by silicon, the latter finds no place in a Julien Coudray watch movement - or at any rate not for at least a century… until the material itself becomes part of tradition!

    9. Horological oil change
    Julien Coudray 1518 watches are currently the only models to feature a service indicator in the form of an oil drop appearing through an aperture at 12 o'clock and gradually disappearing after four years as a reminder that it's time for a maintenance service.

    10. Two of everything
    Julien Coudray 1518 produces a kit of spare parts for each watch sold. Each numbered kit is stored in a safe and can be used when components need to be replaced in 20, 50, 100 or more years' time!

  • Louis Moinet - The Ateliers turn ten

    Located in Saint-Blaise, in Neuchâtel, Ateliers Louis Moinet has succeeded in gaining the trust of lovers of fine watches and industry professionals alike.
    Professionals have rewarded the brand's excellence with many different prizes, including five Red Dot Awards - not least, the Best of the Best: an extremely rare distinction in watchmaking design. More recently, the Ateliers received a Merit for Development award for Watchmaking Arts and Technologies from the International Institute for Promotion and Prestige (IIPP) in cooperation with UNESCO. Further recognition has come in the form of a much remarked-on International Chronometry Competition prize in 2013.

    Fine watchmaking connoisseurs have been won over, too. With just a few hundred watches manufactured each year - each of them numbered and produced as part of a limited edition or as a unique item - the Ateliers are able to perform meticulous work on every timepiece, and deliver innovative, audacious creations.

    These include grand complication timepieces such as Astralis, Magistralis and Meteoris, featuring world firsts such as the use of meteorites from the moon and Mars, as well as stromatolite - the most ancient fossil. There's technology, too, with watches like the Jules Verne and Tempograph, leading to many patent applications and as many mechanical innovations.

    The Ateliers will be continuing along their chosen course. "Rebuilding our history even as we look to the future - that's our unique destiny" explains Jean-Marie Schaller, founding CEO of the Ateliers. "Being worthy of the legacy of Louis Moinet takes nothing short of our best efforts. It calls for a pioneering, innovative spirit, as well as plenty of respect for tradition. As Louis Moinet himself said: 'invention should be for the sake of Art - nothing more and nothing less'."

    The Ateliers will continue to focus on limited editions, creativity and the brand's distinctive watchmaking art. From "dewdrop hands" to the daring "Côtes du Jura" dials, not forgetting the iconic Louis Moinet case - protected by a manufacturing patent - the timepieces are redolent with the brand's personality.

     The Ateliers are still buzzing with projects that are, as yet, closely guarded secrets. "We've barely scratched the surface of Louis Moinet's creative genius. More than ever, I'm convinced that further exploration of this visionary's archives will yield still further surprises for us," says Jean-Marie Schaller.

     2016 will be a banner year, marking the bicentenary of Louis Moinet's invention of the chronograph.
     

  • Les Ambassadeurs - Döttling arrives in the boutiques

    When German manufacturer Döttling, a leading specialist in safes, launched its Colosimo model, Les Ambassadeurs immediately saw the potential synergies between the two design houses: a love of mechanical beauty and watchmaking, an attention to detail and quality finishes and an underlying desire for security.
    The smallest safe in history, the Colosimo owes its name to a notorious gangster who terrorised the USA during Prohibition. A miniature replica of the safes in use during that time, the Colosimo is fitted with a circular door and 16 mechanical locking bolts which work independently of one another. Finished in leather-covered steel, it can be also be fitted with a precision watch-winder for keeping both timepieces and other valuables safe. Colosimo, where safety meets beauty.


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