Piaget - Aesthetics, a matter of equilibrium
GMT XXL - Summer 2012
Just as in certain pictorial works or modern sculptures, the alchemist's blend of shapes, based on subtly balanced lines that form the silhouette of a watch, sometimes seems so self-evident that it is hard to imagine the sheer complexity of the work performed upstream. This deceptive simplicity is doubtless one of the chief characteristics of the new Gouverneur line, featuring superimposed shapes facilitated by a highly complex case construction. As one expects from exceptional models, several interlocking elements feature a variety of finishes: the case and its sides are satinbrushed, while the bezel and the back are polished, as are the chronograph pushers - oval shaped to echo the spirit of the watch - along with the polished chamfers on the case. Framed by this 43 mm case crafted in pink or white gold and enhanced by a diamond-set bezel, the dial creates a smoothly continuous effect and achieves perfect harmony between round and oval shapes. A round case, an oval dial opening, and then a new circle in the dial center : these superimposed shapes are indeed the signature feature of the new Gouverneur line and immerse it into an architectural world enriched with a wealth of subtle details and symbols.
This new line integrated within the Black Tie collection testifies to a combination of traditional expertise and cutting-edge technology. The Gouverneur line comprises three models housing the same number of diff erent mechanical Manufacture Piaget movements, including two new ultra-thin calibers, representing an integral part of the House DNA. The simplest model in the line, the Gouverneur Automatic Calendar watch, beats to the rhythm of Caliber 800P. Featuring a large balance with screws, as well as a balance-stop device, it comprises two barrels ensuring an approximately 85-hour power reserve. This movement, reputed for its sturdiness, displays the hours, minutes, central seconds, as well as the date through a window at 6 o'clock. The decorations are in keeping with the brand's signature finishing touches: circular Côtes de Geneve, a circular-grained mainplate, chamfered bridges, blued screws and the oscillating weight stamped with the Piaget coat-of-arms.
The Gouverneur Chronograph houses the new Caliber 822P, an ultrathin mechanical self-winding movement. This classic chronograph is distinguished by its two-counter configuration in tune with the spirit of vintage chronographs. In addition to the flyback chronograph functions, this movement drives indications of the hours, minutes, a 24-hour dual time-zone display at 9 o'clock and the date at 6 o'clock. The ultra-thin movement measuring just 5.6 mm thick has a large balance with screws as well as a balance-stop device. It beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 v/h) and comprises two barrels guaranteeing an approximately 50-hour power reserve in activated chronograph mode.
The Gouverneur Tourbillon model is powered by the new Caliber 642P, an extremely slender mechanical hand-wound movement measuring just 4 mm, and distinguished by the ultra-thin and ultra-light fl ying tourbillon carriage incorporating the stylized "P" for Piaget - a particularly sophisticated horological exercise in light of the natural asymmetry of this letter. In addition to the flying tourbillon visible at 12 o'clock thanks to the openworked dial, Calibre 642P also drives an astronomical moon-phase - requiring just one correction every 122 years - displayed by a hand at 6 o'clock. Providing yet another demonstration of the determination shown by the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget in placing technique in the service of design, the pointer-type moon display further accentuates the presence of the circle theme on the dial.
Piaget's legitimacy has always been built on a tangible reality, which is why the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie has constantly renewed its expertise in the highly technical field of ultra-thin movements. In 2010, Piaget celebrated in the best possible way the 50th anniversary of its legendary Caliber 12P by presenting Calibers 1200P (hours and minutes) and 1208P (hours, minutes and small seconds), the world's thinnest mechanical self-winding movements. At the same time, the House was charting new territory in the field of skeletonisation or openworking. This quest for essentials is particularly evident in the Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Ultra-thin model which can boast a double record : that of being the world's thinnest openworked automatic watch (5.34 mm); and of housing the world's thinnest openworked automatic movement (2.40 mm).
It took almost three years of study and research to develop the Piaget Caliber 1200S. Engraving and chasing this masterpiece without influencing its rigidity - and thus its smooth operation - is a task reserved for the world's finest artisans. Upstream, meticulous conception and calculation work was required in order to shape the skeletonized outline of the world's thinnest automatic movement without impairing its resistance and its reliability. To ensure the Piaget Caliber 1200S is as rigid as possible, its design was called into play : the long curves crossing through mainplate and bridges provide an harmonious way of rigidifying the overall eff ect. Skeletonizing the world's thinnest automatic movement naturally calls for extreme mastery, and it is remarkable to note that this quest for the infinite small is combined with exceptional decorative workmanship. Stylistic research was based on alternating matte (sunburst or sandblasted) surfaces with the brilliance of polished chamfers, as well as the variations in rhodium grey or black colors. The decidedly contemporary and well-structured Piaget Caliber 1200S raises the art of skeleton working to a whole new dimension, with resolutely modern lines demonstrating respect for traditional gestures. This new calibre is housed within a 38 mm-diameter white gold case specifically designed and developed to accommodate it. This optimal interaction between a mechanism and its exterior is an art that the Manufacture masters to perfection. It is precisely this two-fold internal competence that enables Piaget to work in parallel on conceiving the movement and the case, in order to create the world's thinnest openworked automatic watch. This world-first achievement would have been unimaginable without this full range of skills cultivated in-house.