Baume & Mercier - Retro-Chic Spirit
WORLDTEMPUS - 19 May 2011
What separates success from failure in a commercial world that is ever more competent and competitive? The secret is to communicate properly and capture the imagination of the consumer. Though it's much more difficult to get both tangible and intangible results than it seems, Baume & Mercier got them with one good idea and a simple message.
The good idea: you can't go wrong with elegant, classic chronographs. The simple message: the magical aura of the east coast of the United States transmitted by ethereal advertisement pictures. Even if the concept has been used by big fashion companies such as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Gant, Baume & Mercier can boast legitimacy in both watchmaking and the seaside living connection. And, thus, the retro-chic Capeland line embodies a new beginning in the history of the brand founded in 1830.
Classic elegance
Alain Zimmermann, the new man at the helm of Baume & Mercier, rapidly sensed the brand needed not only a more consistent product but also a new corporate image. The names of the brand's most important men's collections have been related to famous coastlines: the Riviera and Hampton lines were rejuvenated with mitigated success in the recent past, with watches going from elegant to extreme. The brand's new CEO streamlined the number of references, brought the Capeland line back and made it the cornerstone of the new collection.
The new seaside living image that accompanied the launch of the Capeland was allegedly inspired by pictures of legendary movie star Errol Flynn on his boat and John F. Kennedy with his family at Cape Cod. Too many brands have gone "urban" or "modern"; Alan Zimmermann opted for contemporary retro-chic instead and hit the nail on the head. The reactions to this transformation have been positive, starting with the most talked-about party at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie earlier this year in Geneva. In a matter of days, a Hampton's beach was set up in a 5,000 square-meter area with the help of 75 tons of sand.
The sense of context was provided by an advertising campaign based on photos of actual families (real, but also very good looking) savoring precious moments together in the Hamptons. This is the kind of setting Baume & Mercier has been utilizing to introduce the new Capeland and Linea lines around the world, and in Portugal the location was perfect: Cascais, the westernmost coastal point of Europe, a beautiful resort village at the tip of the Lisbon-Estoril coastline that became home to many exiled European royal families during World War II, including those of Spain (King Juan Carlos spent his childhood there), Italy, Hungary and Bulgaria.
Chrono mania
It's no secret that the most popular watch style among men is the chronograph - thanks to the racy look provided by the counters and the many ways to play with it. Baume & Mercier's re-launch of the Capeland line has been based exclusively on chronographs, albeit two kinds: an "emblematic piece" that is a bit more expensive and the "regular" piece available in six versions.
The star is clearly a bi-compax chronograph powered by a La Joux-Perret self-winding mechanical movement with flyback chronograph, available in stainless steel and red gold. The dial was inspired by a historic timepiece found in the brand's archives: a monopusher chronograph from 1948 with a "cheve" crystal and domed case back, a direct reference to the "galet" pocket watches of the early nineteenth century.
The regular Capeland line is powered by a Valjoux 7753 and offered in six dial variations: slate gray, anthracite, copper-colored, brown, silver-colored, black and white. Each has two-tone dials and boasts two scales (tachymeter and telemeter) that enhance the classic 1950s spirit of their visuals.
Overall, it's a collection defined by sport-chic design, retro accents and warm tones with some precise traits for a b expression of brand identity. With the exception of the so-called emblematic pieces, Baume & Mercier is sticking to the 1,750 to 3,500 euro price range.