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Top Quality Omega Quartz Watches (454) Items
Top Quality Omega Quartz Watches (454) Items

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  • Omega - Wearing the Co-axial Speedmaster

    One of the major introductions from Baselworld 2011 was, of course, Omega's new chronograph caliber. I was therefore quite disappointed when a Swatch Group scheduling glitch occurred and I missed my chance to see it. "These things happen," I thought and did my utmost to try to get down to the factory in the ensuing months - to no avail. I just seemed destined to miss out on seeing what I suspected was going to be a truly excellent product. In October, my chance suddenly appeared: my French-language colleague at Worldtempus Louis Nardin had arranged a test period with just this watch (

    read his story here). Sometimes I am amazed at the way things work out.
     


    The legend
    Despite a reminiscent resemblance to Rolex, the Speedmaster has been able to carve out a fixed place for itself in history thanks to the legendary journey it took to the moon on the wrist of Neil Armb in 1969. Back then this watch originally introduced in 1957 ran on a manually wound Lemania that Omega called Caliber 321.
    It's hard to mess with a legend and come out on top, but Omega has done an admirable job of it. This beefed up version of the Speedmaster measures a full 44.25 mm in diameter. It is perhaps this large size that gives it such a different feel and look as compared to the previous versions, which were either 38 or 39 mm.
     


    The obvious
    Aside from the size, aficionados will notice a few obvious differences between this new version and previous, more classic versions. The chronograph totalizers are bicompax rather than tricompax, a date window has been added to the 6 o'clock position and the ten-minute/stop-second numerals have been left off the new dial design. These three design elements alone have been enough to raise the hackles of collectors, leading some to even ask me outright while I was wearing the watch, "Is this a proper Speedmaster?"
    While this is a question that can only be answered individually, my answer to this question would be a resounding, "Yes, it is a proper Speedmaster." A dial - which is the most important and doubtlessly the deciding factor in any wristwatch - is always a question of balance and proportions. While the dial has been slightly transformed, this was necessary because the entire size of the case had changed, making it more contemporary. 
    Also, in my estimation, the changed elements serve to clean up the dial a bit and make it fresher and cleaner. This, naturally, precludes that it loses a bit of its instrument character, but then so be it. The end look is attractive and compelling, a fact that I came to appreciate more and more as I wore this flawlessly functioning chronograph.
    Also, and this is important for me, the changed proportions, cleaner dial and bicompax chronograph totalizers make it appear less Rolex-y than its predecessors. I know I risk some backlash with that statement, but it has always been a detracting factor in my eyes. The transformation is a good one.
     


    The caliber
    The original Speedmasters ran on Lemania movements, which were not created specifically for this model. This new Speedmaster, which is officially named Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph (Reference 311.30.44.51.01.002), is the first to be fitted with a movement that was created specifically for it. Omega Caliber 9300 is automatic, column wheel-controlled, and contains a co-axial escapement with a free-sprung silicon balance spring and two serially operating spring barrels for 60 hours of power reserve. Though I did not time the chronograph on a Witschi (that is not what our Worldtempus tests aim to prove), I can say that the caliber was extremely accurate and that 60 hours of power reserve is really excellent - you can put it down over the weekend and not have to wind it again on Monday morning. As I am not a watchmaker, I wouldn't want to venture a guess as to whether the co-axial provides more accuracy that a regular Swiss lever escapement with the same attributes. In my estimation, it is at least as precise.
    One collector asked me during the test phase if the date changes exactly at midnight: a valid question. The answer is no, it's not an instantaneous change. The changeover lasts about ten minutes or so - not a bad balance.


    The bottom line
    At $8,700 this stainless steel sports watch is not necessarily overpriced. Comparable Rolex models are commensurate in price: the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in stainless steel currently costs $8,000.
    The updates to this model are justified and well executed; after all, a simple reproduction would be ultimately boring, like hearing a cover version of a song that hasn't been changed at all except for the fact that a different group is performing it. In fact, the changes contain new codes that correspond to our era and our generation. Welcome to 2011, Omega Speedmaster. 
     

  • Omega - Planet Ocean on Capri


    WORLDTEMPUS - 23 mai 2011

    Last week, Omega impressively showed its latest Seamaster Planet Ocean models on the small island of Capri in the bay of Naples. A boat sailing around the historic island entered one of the legendary blue grottos, where a mermaid emerged from the water to hand one of the new orange Planet Ocean Chronograph to this reporter. The colorful diver's watch was not a present from a beautiful sea creature, but rather Omega's creative way to present a new watch to the press on board the chartered vessel.
    This diver's watch, water-resistant to 600 meters, of the Seamaster Planet Ocean collection - which was originally launched in 2004 - is a sporty Omega. The line includes a three-hander (in both 42 and 45.5 mm case diameters) and 45.5 mm chronograph model in addition to a slightly more feminine 37.5 mm version for women: all are fitted with the latest in-house mechanical co-axial calibers 8500/8501, 8520/8521 or the new 9300 (chronograph). 

    The chronograph, available in stainless steel with an orange aluminum bezel, a black ceramic bezel or in titanium with a blue ceramic bezel and Liquidmetal markers, displays the 12-hour and 60-minute chronograph totalizers on the same subdial at 3 o'clock. This is the same set-up found on the new Speedmaster Moon. All the new movements are furthermore fitted with a newly developed Si 14 silicon balance spring, which is apparently incredibly reliable: Omega offers a four-year factory guarantee on it.

    No more quartz


    "We produced 420,000 co-axial movements in 2010," Omega president Stephen Urquhart explained as he showed the new collection at a scenic beach club located on one of the rocks where sirens allegedly lured sailors with their seductive song.
    "That is more than half our total production . Within the next three years we will fit all our watches with our own movements," he claimed, indicating the end of quartz as going forward all models will contain mechanical movements, including the women's lines. Though it was pointed out that some women would rather spend their money on a diamond bezel or a precious metal case than a mechanical movement, Urquhart was insistent that Omega "needs to be consistent."

    As much as this represents a changing of guard, it means that Omega's pricing will increase as well. However, it seems to be a clever move as the market with the biggest growth in Swiss horology belongs to a price segment around 15,000 euros, where it was between 2,500 and 7,500 only ten years ago. The entry level price for the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean collection today (with mechanical, co-axial, manufacture Caliber 8500) is approximately 4,600 euros on a strap. The former entry-level model, which did not include a manufacture movement, had a retail price of approximately 3,300 euros.
    Scratch-resistant
    Above and beyond the use of mechanical manufacture movements, Omega also justifies its price increase with innovative external developments, such as the blue ceramic bezel made of Liquidmetal, a scratch-resistant amorphous material. Combined with the high-tech ceramic bezel insert, the bezel comprising these two innovative materials will maintain its appearance indefinitely.
    The bright orange bezel version, however, is not yet crafted in ceramic material, but rather aluminum. According to Jean-Claude Monachon, in charge of product development, the orange ceramic material turns beige when exposed to extreme heat. "We'll solve this problem eventually," Monachon is confident.New partnership and man from the moon
    Omega announced a new partnership with environmental activist, photographer and filmmaker Yann Arthus-Bertrand and his organization GoodPlanet. Together with Omega, Arthus-Betrand will produce a film named for the Planet Ocean watches about the earth's oceans. It will serve to remind viewers of the natural beauty that covers two-thirds of the planet's surface and to raise the awareness of what can be done to protect the oceans.
    During the event, Urquhart introduced another friend of Omega: astronaut Buzz Aldrin. Aldrin, of course, who wore a Speedmaster when he landed on the moon in 1969, has been a decade-long ambassador of Omega. This particular evening, he wore a gold Omega De Ville Chronoscope - and of course an Apollo 11 pin in the collar of his immaculate blue suit.

Omega Quartz

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