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Top Quality Omega Hand Wind Watches (119) Items
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Top Quality Omega Hand Wind Watches (119) Items
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  • The Expert's view - Five leading watchmakers of our day

    These five watchmakers are endowed with spirits of curiosity, technical supremacy and progressive thinking. They lead the mechanical industry by example: exploring theunknown while ensuring that stability and accuracy remain the prime elements of their creations. Meet five examples of horological brilliance as different as day and night—all bound to write their own chapters of watch history.
     

    Jean-François Mojon
    Shooting star Mojon maintains an uncompromising, engineering approach to his movement designs and this is logical, for he not only studied watchmaking technology at the Technicum in Le Locle, but also mechanical engineering. "Technology in general fascinated me as a child," he explains.
    His career has been broad: starting out in electronics, he worked in quartz and LCD. He also worked in the aviation industry and for Omega for six years. In 1995, he acted on the desire to learn German and get really involved in the watch industry, so he sent an application to IWC, where he worked under Gunter Blumlein and became the head of quality control (...)




  • Omega - Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT


    The OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8605/8615 is the first of OMEGA's proprietary movements to be equipped with a GMT complication, meaning that along with the central hour, minute and seconds hands, there is a GMT hand which completes one rotation every 24 hours, making it possible to keep track of the time in two time zones.
     
    The 43 mm case is available in a choice of metals: 18 Ct red gold or stainless steel or, in a bicolor version in 18 Ct red gold and stainless steel. The sapphire crystal on the screw-in caseback allows a clear view of the extraordinary Co-Axial movement inside. The watch is available with either a bracelet in the same metal as the watch case or with a black, brown or blue leather strap.


    The dial is distinguished by the teak pattern associated with the Aqua Terra collection. The vertical lines are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats. The applied 18 Ct gold brushed and polished indexes are coated with white Super-LumiNova and the facetted hands are crafted from 18 Ct white or red gold. Like the indexes, they are coated with white Super-LumiNova which allows ease of reading in all light conditions. The GMT hand's red arrow makes it easy to distinguish the two time zones.
    At the heart of the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT is the Co-Axial calibre 8605/8615. It is part of the family of movements OMEGA introduced in 2007 built around the first practical new watch escapement to be developed in some 250 years. The Co -Axial escapement in the OMEGA calibres is used in conjunction with a free sprung-balance and its function differs considerably from that of a conventional lever escapement with index.
    The watch's rate can be adjusted by modifying the moment of inertia of the balance by means of two gold regulating micro screws embedded in the circular balance. This design avoids the disturbing effects of contact between the balance-spring and the index pins and therefore ensures that the stability of rate offered by the Co-Axial escapement is maintained over long periods of use. The result is reduced friction which means that there is almost no need for lubrication; the Co-Axial calibres have long service intervals and the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, which is also equipped with a silicon balance spring, is delivered with a four-year warranty.
     
    The OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8605/8615 is the first in the family to be equipped with a GMT complication. Its GMT hand has a diamond-polished red arrow, making it easy to track time in a second time zone or GMT display. Intriguingly, the GMT hand can also be used for compass orientation: when the watch is held parallel to the ground with its hour hand pointed in the direction of the sun, the GMT hand, when it is adjusted to the same time on the 24-hour GMT display, will indicate north in the northern hemisphere.

  • Omega - Wearing the Co-axial Speedmaster

    One of the major introductions from Baselworld 2011 was, of course, Omega's new chronograph caliber. I was therefore quite disappointed when a Swatch Group scheduling glitch occurred and I missed my chance to see it. "These things happen," I thought and did my utmost to try to get down to the factory in the ensuing months - to no avail. I just seemed destined to miss out on seeing what I suspected was going to be a truly excellent product. In October, my chance suddenly appeared: my French-language colleague at Worldtempus Louis Nardin had arranged a test period with just this watch (

    read his story here). Sometimes I am amazed at the way things work out.
     


    The legend
    Despite a reminiscent resemblance to Rolex, the Speedmaster has been able to carve out a fixed place for itself in history thanks to the legendary journey it took to the moon on the wrist of Neil Armb in 1969. Back then this watch originally introduced in 1957 ran on a manually wound Lemania that Omega called Caliber 321.
    It's hard to mess with a legend and come out on top, but Omega has done an admirable job of it. This beefed up version of the Speedmaster measures a full 44.25 mm in diameter. It is perhaps this large size that gives it such a different feel and look as compared to the previous versions, which were either 38 or 39 mm.
     


    The obvious
    Aside from the size, aficionados will notice a few obvious differences between this new version and previous, more classic versions. The chronograph totalizers are bicompax rather than tricompax, a date window has been added to the 6 o'clock position and the ten-minute/stop-second numerals have been left off the new dial design. These three design elements alone have been enough to raise the hackles of collectors, leading some to even ask me outright while I was wearing the watch, "Is this a proper Speedmaster?"
    While this is a question that can only be answered individually, my answer to this question would be a resounding, "Yes, it is a proper Speedmaster." A dial - which is the most important and doubtlessly the deciding factor in any wristwatch - is always a question of balance and proportions. While the dial has been slightly transformed, this was necessary because the entire size of the case had changed, making it more contemporary. 
    Also, in my estimation, the changed elements serve to clean up the dial a bit and make it fresher and cleaner. This, naturally, precludes that it loses a bit of its instrument character, but then so be it. The end look is attractive and compelling, a fact that I came to appreciate more and more as I wore this flawlessly functioning chronograph.
    Also, and this is important for me, the changed proportions, cleaner dial and bicompax chronograph totalizers make it appear less Rolex-y than its predecessors. I know I risk some backlash with that statement, but it has always been a detracting factor in my eyes. The transformation is a good one.
     


    The caliber
    The original Speedmasters ran on Lemania movements, which were not created specifically for this model. This new Speedmaster, which is officially named Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph (Reference 311.30.44.51.01.002), is the first to be fitted with a movement that was created specifically for it. Omega Caliber 9300 is automatic, column wheel-controlled, and contains a co-axial escapement with a free-sprung silicon balance spring and two serially operating spring barrels for 60 hours of power reserve. Though I did not time the chronograph on a Witschi (that is not what our Worldtempus tests aim to prove), I can say that the caliber was extremely accurate and that 60 hours of power reserve is really excellent - you can put it down over the weekend and not have to wind it again on Monday morning. As I am not a watchmaker, I wouldn't want to venture a guess as to whether the co-axial provides more accuracy that a regular Swiss lever escapement with the same attributes. In my estimation, it is at least as precise.
    One collector asked me during the test phase if the date changes exactly at midnight: a valid question. The answer is no, it's not an instantaneous change. The changeover lasts about ten minutes or so - not a bad balance.


    The bottom line
    At $8,700 this stainless steel sports watch is not necessarily overpriced. Comparable Rolex models are commensurate in price: the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in stainless steel currently costs $8,000.
    The updates to this model are justified and well executed; after all, a simple reproduction would be ultimately boring, like hearing a cover version of a song that hasn't been changed at all except for the fact that a different group is performing it. In fact, the changes contain new codes that correspond to our era and our generation. Welcome to 2011, Omega Speedmaster. 
     

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