Omega - 007 reporting for duty
When Daniel Craig reprises his role as James Bond in Skyfall, he will be wearing an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M 42mm with a black dial and a matt black ceramic unidirectional rotating divers' bezel. Bond fans and Omega enthusiasts will know that the world's favourite secret agent has been wearing Seamasters since 1995 and the Planet Ocean has been his choice since Casino Royale in 2006.
James Bond's choice
For Skyfall, Bond's choice is the steel on steel Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Omega Co-Axial Chronometer, whose design features can be traced directly back to the classic Seamasters of the 1950s. Inside the case it's a different story: the watch is driven by the Omega Co-Axial calibre 8500 whose revolutionary Co-Axial escapement and free sprung balance deliver long-term stability and precision, dramatically reducing the need for servicing. Also equipped with an Si14 silicon balance spring, the watch is delivered with a four-year warranty.
The hands and indexes have been treated with Super-LumiNova and are legible in all lights and conditions and offer a stark contrast to the matt black surface of the dial. The Super-LumiNova on the indexes, the hour hand and the seconds hands emits a blue light; the luminescent material on the minute hand and the dot on the bezel appear green. This contrast means that divers can tell at a glance how much time has elapsed when they are underwater. Even the sweep of the luminous orange-tipped seconds hand can easily be read in the dark. There are Arabic numerals at 12, 6, and 9 o'clock with a date window at the 3 o'clock position on the dial.
A professional divers' watch
A professional divers' watch, the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Omega Co-Axial Chronometer is equipped with a helium escape valve. The stainless steel bracelet features a diver's clasp which allows its length to be extended to fit around a wetsuit. As its name suggests, the Planet Ocean 600m is water resistant to a depth of 600 metres (60 bar / 2000 feet).
Omega and the world's most stylish spy
James Bond has worn an Omega Seamaster in every film since Goldeneye in 1995. Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming first introduced Bond to Omega. She described Bond as a naval man and a discreet gentleman of the world, so the Seamaster was the obvious choice. Omega couldn't agree more!
Omega - Wearing the Co-axial Speedmaster
One of the major introductions from Baselworld 2011 was, of course, Omega's new chronograph caliber. I was therefore quite disappointed when a Swatch Group scheduling glitch occurred and I missed my chance to see it. "These things happen," I thought and did my utmost to try to get down to the factory in the ensuing months - to no avail. I just seemed destined to miss out on seeing what I suspected was going to be a truly excellent product. In October, my chance suddenly appeared: my French-language colleague at Worldtempus Louis Nardin had arranged a test period with just this watch (
read his story here). Sometimes I am amazed at the way things work out.
The legend
Despite a reminiscent resemblance to Rolex, the Speedmaster has been able to carve out a fixed place for itself in history thanks to the legendary journey it took to the moon on the wrist of Neil Armb in 1969. Back then this watch originally introduced in 1957 ran on a manually wound Lemania that Omega called Caliber 321.
It's hard to mess with a legend and come out on top, but Omega has done an admirable job of it. This beefed up version of the Speedmaster measures a full 44.25 mm in diameter. It is perhaps this large size that gives it such a different feel and look as compared to the previous versions, which were either 38 or 39 mm.
The obvious
Aside from the size, aficionados will notice a few obvious differences between this new version and previous, more classic versions. The chronograph totalizers are bicompax rather than tricompax, a date window has been added to the 6 o'clock position and the ten-minute/stop-second numerals have been left off the new dial design. These three design elements alone have been enough to raise the hackles of collectors, leading some to even ask me outright while I was wearing the watch, "Is this a proper Speedmaster?"
While this is a question that can only be answered individually, my answer to this question would be a resounding, "Yes, it is a proper Speedmaster." A dial - which is the most important and doubtlessly the deciding factor in any wristwatch - is always a question of balance and proportions. While the dial has been slightly transformed, this was necessary because the entire size of the case had changed, making it more contemporary.
Also, in my estimation, the changed elements serve to clean up the dial a bit and make it fresher and cleaner. This, naturally, precludes that it loses a bit of its instrument character, but then so be it. The end look is attractive and compelling, a fact that I came to appreciate more and more as I wore this flawlessly functioning chronograph.
Also, and this is important for me, the changed proportions, cleaner dial and bicompax chronograph totalizers make it appear less Rolex-y than its predecessors. I know I risk some backlash with that statement, but it has always been a detracting factor in my eyes. The transformation is a good one.
The caliber
The original Speedmasters ran on Lemania movements, which were not created specifically for this model. This new Speedmaster, which is officially named Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph (Reference 311.30.44.51.01.002), is the first to be fitted with a movement that was created specifically for it. Omega Caliber 9300 is automatic, column wheel-controlled, and contains a co-axial escapement with a free-sprung silicon balance spring and two serially operating spring barrels for 60 hours of power reserve. Though I did not time the chronograph on a Witschi (that is not what our Worldtempus tests aim to prove), I can say that the caliber was extremely accurate and that 60 hours of power reserve is really excellent - you can put it down over the weekend and not have to wind it again on Monday morning. As I am not a watchmaker, I wouldn't want to venture a guess as to whether the co-axial provides more accuracy that a regular Swiss lever escapement with the same attributes. In my estimation, it is at least as precise.
One collector asked me during the test phase if the date changes exactly at midnight: a valid question. The answer is no, it's not an instantaneous change. The changeover lasts about ten minutes or so - not a bad balance.
The bottom line
At $8,700 this stainless steel sports watch is not necessarily overpriced. Comparable Rolex models are commensurate in price: the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in stainless steel currently costs $8,000.
The updates to this model are justified and well executed; after all, a simple reproduction would be ultimately boring, like hearing a cover version of a song that hasn't been changed at all except for the fact that a different group is performing it. In fact, the changes contain new codes that correspond to our era and our generation. Welcome to 2011, Omega Speedmaster.
Omega - Seamaster Ploprof 1200M
In 1970 OMEGA launched the Seamaster Professional 600, the so-called "Ploprof" (the first letters of plongeur professionnel - the French words meaning "professional diver"), one of the most rugged, robust and seaworthy divers' wristwatches ever manufactured.
Last year we introduced a completely updated version of the divers' classic. Equipped with a Co-Axial calibre 8500, the new Ploprof 1200M is, as its name suggests, water resistant to an astounding 1200 metres (4000 feet, 120 bar) and it is an artful union of its ancestor's legendary features and OMEGA's state-of-the-industry Co-Axial technology.
The OMEGA Seamaster Ploprof 1200M in white!
This year OMEGA presents its white version of the Ploprof. It has all of the features professional divers have come to expect from OMEGA: a white bi-directional locking bezel with chrome-coated Arabic numerals, an automatic helium escape valve and water resistance to 1200 metres (4000 feet, 120 bar). The watch, with its timeless white bezel and dial, is presented with either a white rubber strap or a brushed mesh "Sharkproof" bracelet.
The Ploprof's case cannot be mistaken for that of any other watch: the screwed-in crown is located at 9 o'clock under a protective buffer. Its unique positioning allows freer wrist movement and prevents any inadvertent manipulation.
Designed for divers
At the 2 o'clock position is the Ploprof's characteristic bezel-release security pusher with an orange anodised aluminium ring. Pressing the pusher allows the bezel to be rotated in either direction and then locked firmly in position, ensuring that it cannot be accidentally shifted during a dive. The Ploprof has an automatic helium escape valve located on the side of the case at the 4 o'clock position. This feature allows helium atoms to escape during decompression, and is particularly useful for professional divers operating from diving bells.
The Seamaster Ploprof 1200M has a polished, lacquered white dial with an applied polished OMEGA name and logo. The oversized minute hand, which plays such an important role for divers, is crafted from orange anodised aluminium for legibility and is coated with white Super-LumiNova.
Respecting the past, defining the future
The OMEGA Seamaster 1200M in white is a perfect expression of OMEGA's pioneering spirit: a classic divers' watch which combines state-of-the-industry innovation with timeless design excellence.