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Top Quality Graham 43.00 mm Watches (4) Items
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Top Quality Graham 43.00 mm Watches (4) Items
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  • Graham - Full Throttle British


    WORLDTEMPUS - 8 April 2011


    As last year, Graham opted to introduce its new timepieces in an adapted restaurant near the Badischer Bahnhof, far enough away from the frenetic Baselworld halls to feel like a rest. Entering felt much like a typical British pub, with beer flowing and blokes talking about rugby and motor racing - the two areas Graham has been closely involved with through sponsorship of the Six Nations Trophy, the Mercedes GP team (former Brawn GP) and the Isle of Man TT circuit.
    At the entrance of the restaurant-turned-Graham-pub, there was a small space dedicated to Arnold & Son. This was the other brand successfully operating under the "British Masters" umbrella, a concept created by Eric Loth and some partners in 1997 concerning several historic names of British watchmaking: Graham, Arnold & Son, Tompion, Quare and Mudge. Of them, Graham (concentrating mainly on chronographs) and Arnold & Son (specialty complications chiefly related to traveling) have been most active. The British Masters umbrella has no longer existed since last year and, even though they share La Joux-Perret as an investor, the two brands are now clearly separated.
    " we had a problem with the British Masters concept. We would have a feature in some magazine where the names British Masters, Graham and Arnold & Son would be mixed," Eric Loth admitted during Baselworld. "We've observed this marketing problem especially since we've been involved with Formula 1: it was never clear to the customers that Arnold wasn't Graham and Graham wasn't Arnold, so around Baselworld last year we decided to separate it from a marketing point of view. I was changing hats all the time and, finally, at a certain point it was not healthy for anyone."


    Rule, iconoclastic Brittania!
    Now that that "family problem" has been solved by severing ties with its sister brand, Graham can boast a coherent collection based around three lines: the emblematic Chronofighter with its unmistakable trigger, the wide-eyed Swordfish, and the racy Silverstone. Additionally, the brand boasts a few exclusive complications created in association with partner and caliber manufacturer La Joux-Perret - such as the Tourbillograph.
    A new Tourbillograph in an all-black Silverstone case was one of the highlights of the 2011 models introduced in Basel. "It has great potential: it's complicated at a reasonable cost with a lot of technical features - a very exciting product," Loth commented. "Besides the new Tourbillograph, we made product improvements in every single line, revisions with new dials, colors, coatings and materials - we are always moving."
    Loth likes to proclaim the "Britishness" of Graham - not a traditional British style of strict, colonial Old England, but the daring iconoclastic spirit like the free-thinking Britain of rockers Rolling Stones or designer Vivienne Westwood. "I like the sport chic, where color assumes an important role and there's always a touch of craziness," said the founder. "The British have this way of transmitting a luxury concept where there's always an element of rupture, inventing something that at first seems irrational but that with time becomes logical and even a paragon. That's Graham."
    Loth continues, "The 'Britishness' of the brand starts with its heritage. Master watchmaker George Graham was a brilliant inventor: he invented systems, mechanisms, escapements, and he made the very first chronograph as an instrument (not a device). We strive to improve our 'Britishness." Our association with Brawn GP happened through this 'Britishness' because, before the merger with Mercedes GP, it was a British team. Car racing is a British thing. The Isle of Man motorbike race is a very British thing. Rugby is obviously a very British thing. And we developed collaborations with British fashion designers like Ozwald Boateng. The 'Britishness' of our timepieces comes through heritage, the connections and the inspiration, though we produce in Switzerland."


    Britishness and the new El Dorado
    One might ask how Graham's flashy style copes with the current return to minimalist classics spurred by the demands of the more conservative Chinese market. "A brand has its own blood; you cannot change the DNA just to temporarily please a customer base. I went through Hall 1 at Baselworld and the brands are going all the same way; they all look like they are in the 1960s. Some are showing things I saw during my first Basel Fair in 1979! That's not Graham; we have a passion for the future, for the next step," said Loth. "Customers will be fed up with seeing all the brands doing the same thing, and soon they will ask for different things, a more advanced design and product. If you don't lose your soul, even if you temporarily do a little less business, you give yourself a long-term chance because they'll realize we've always been genuine. Those doing opportunistic products will be remembered for that in the future. The Chinese are very competitive people, they've been fighting very hard to get their money, they are extremely smart buyers and they're educating themselves ten times faster than anyone else through the Internet - through Worldtempus, for instance! Time is on our side."
    Time is now a bit more on Loth's side as well. "At 53, I know extremely well who I am and where I'm going. I have removed myself from the picture as Graham's CEO, I needed a bit more time to myself while wanting to give new blood to the company because after 15 years I was at the end of what I could bring in daily - now I don't want to show myself too much unless we are talking about basic strategic issues. The DNA is clear, the collection is clear. I'm watching, but I don't need to give my input all the time anymore. We have a board responsible for all strategic issues, I am on the board and I'm a shareholder, but there's management to implement things and the management has freedom."


    Ivan Dupraz has been made COO. "I come from the financial world and I already knew the brand. Then the board - William Asprey, Ivan Dupraz and Eric Loth - asked me to become COO," said Dupraz. "My strength is organization; my role is to optimize the supply chain, the marketing and ultimately the sales. The success of a brand depends on good team spirit."
    Just like in any rugby side or any Formula 1 box.

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